tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5506818867758127922024-03-18T03:47:48.376-06:00Clayhaus RuminationsWherein I cogitate over a multitude of topics, some perhaps even relevant.clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.comBlogger82125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-34873322563731821892024-02-18T21:02:00.006-07:002024-02-19T14:36:45.175-07:00Fourth Time's a Charm?<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5xErvgd-8UxDxB_5Sq-VuusCloEuwW76sjE7LkZ6qPUn2Lz9ATHzrAVPHUz6QYxvBLt4DpHADxau8vWp3HEVeii3JSfGN-W3nn4P4FAzJ4H2hqNrVfIrxhnVjIXBOxjHVmBBb8EvBKUip2W47u_OSzfsNdmQUAbkB2Z3d5nsY1pLCW4KIXA5CjqJbmAA/s2000/ClayhausPhotography-IMGP1694-vF.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1429" data-original-width="2000" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5xErvgd-8UxDxB_5Sq-VuusCloEuwW76sjE7LkZ6qPUn2Lz9ATHzrAVPHUz6QYxvBLt4DpHADxau8vWp3HEVeii3JSfGN-W3nn4P4FAzJ4H2hqNrVfIrxhnVjIXBOxjHVmBBb8EvBKUip2W47u_OSzfsNdmQUAbkB2Z3d5nsY1pLCW4KIXA5CjqJbmAA/w400-h286/ClayhausPhotography-IMGP1694-vF.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>In fourth grade — or perhaps it was a fifth grade as my mind is a little hazy on exact dates — I started playing the clarinet. It wasn’t my first choice… It wasn’t my second choice… It wasn’t my third choice… In fact, it wasn’t my choice at all! <br /><br />A few years before this time, my father had bought my mother a piano. To this day I’m still not quite sure why. I never actually saw her playing it and I wonder a bit if it was originally some kind of peace offering. But, whatever the motive, it eventually just became another piece of household furniture. However, not before I had to suffer through two painful years of piano lessons. To be fair, I’m sure the teacher disliked me less than I loathed my sessions with her. In hindsight, I can say that never took well to instruction. Maybe those two years had something to do with it. <br /><br />Being a pianist at any level was not in my future, but I did eventually want to join the school band. So, dutifully, my mother took me to a musical instrument shop where the proprietor asked me what instrument I wanted. I said proudly — because I had been dreaming of this moment for days, if not weeks — I said: "A trombone!" He looked me up and down as if fitting me up for something uncomfortable, and drolly stated: “Your arms are too short.” Crestfallen I was. He then asked what my second choice was. Second choice? I had no second choice so sure I was of walking out of his stupid store with a brassily gleaming bazooka of a horn. But, suddenly it came to me: "A bassoon!" He looked at me dolefully and said “We don’t carry those in this shop.” Doubly crestfallen I was, but, waving away my disappointment, he persisted: “What’s your third choice?” What? A third choice…hmmm…okay "An oboe!" said I. Looking at me as if I was the biggest pain in the ass since that last kid who came into the shop, he exclaimed, with proper authority, “That’s too complicated for you.” I didn’t know what to say at that point and was on the verge of giving up when, he — ever helpful chap that he was — said “play this” and he handed me a clarinet. Mind you I have never had anything against the clarinet. In fact, I quite enjoy hearing it played, especially by somebody who can ... ah ... actually play it. But it was not my first, second, third, nor even my fourth choice and yet here it was: black and white with shiny polished keys and in my hands. Defeated but still glad I was going to join the band — at least for the next four or five years (again dates are a bit fuzzy) — my parents put up with my squeaking and squawking and squonking. Somewhere around the eighth grade I finally hung up my clarinet and added "professional musician" to "stand-up comedian," "football quarterback," and "astrophysicist" to my growing list of as 'careers I shall not pursue.' Sadly, perhaps, though for whom one is not quite sure.<br /><br />Is there a moral to this tale? If there is, perhaps it is: rejection may build strong character, but not necessarily strong lungs nor a sense of rhythm. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGScijEi3Lmgq8Hq3COCwIHGuDAYp0WBm-jOZ7vPNBgOrg5AjuxfnlH-7DqejdMfrTSOymwzJyqpPYR5os1B291U7KkakTtnjTOcueqLdiciiRdWp3-dhWrQJtTmzLj2wGFP8AB5kZt1sa3YLAT7QE2N_veDifxEKJa43b_I2QrsPJe94fVjJVHW6Fd3U/s2000/ClayhausPhotography-IMGP1594-vF.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="2000" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGScijEi3Lmgq8Hq3COCwIHGuDAYp0WBm-jOZ7vPNBgOrg5AjuxfnlH-7DqejdMfrTSOymwzJyqpPYR5os1B291U7KkakTtnjTOcueqLdiciiRdWp3-dhWrQJtTmzLj2wGFP8AB5kZt1sa3YLAT7QE2N_veDifxEKJa43b_I2QrsPJe94fVjJVHW6Fd3U/w400-h256/ClayhausPhotography-IMGP1594-vF.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixrz7dfOBGuUvKopyUpXG_vwUk4Qg6-xCuqj-BBGVpl2ukC4dxHg2LlZZPQS-6LF_s_kf8LpR5TF8NIiJI4_-f9lt_q648mNRg8bUyOi4mXZAmr7MDuwsL-0_B3NadHTC6UmvydnRzwt8-JO7RAG4kyppW5jWHrCnjacmwsni6mjQnnw6hQt26TsZe5Bk/s2000/ClayhausPhotography-IMGP1600-vF.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1329" data-original-width="2000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixrz7dfOBGuUvKopyUpXG_vwUk4Qg6-xCuqj-BBGVpl2ukC4dxHg2LlZZPQS-6LF_s_kf8LpR5TF8NIiJI4_-f9lt_q648mNRg8bUyOi4mXZAmr7MDuwsL-0_B3NadHTC6UmvydnRzwt8-JO7RAG4kyppW5jWHrCnjacmwsni6mjQnnw6hQt26TsZe5Bk/w400-h266/ClayhausPhotography-IMGP1600-vF.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7uWjYPuukgTp-n2-XbX9OfW-S7JZ2MYPyYUWTd34G3BsnJCgLE6ne0jM8w7uBJkV-8zfPkxzpaiqu3DkEXLibHbKEMse3LNm1UiOajwvp4atI-8EjEh204aA0PHkjBNyk-8VZ6wJoYYNoFZf17WtxHQJbRAu7pRocg9ZisAdUuejhfXhu4pMNhJx7HW0/s2000/ClayhausPhotography-IMGP1612-vF.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1329" data-original-width="2000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7uWjYPuukgTp-n2-XbX9OfW-S7JZ2MYPyYUWTd34G3BsnJCgLE6ne0jM8w7uBJkV-8zfPkxzpaiqu3DkEXLibHbKEMse3LNm1UiOajwvp4atI-8EjEh204aA0PHkjBNyk-8VZ6wJoYYNoFZf17WtxHQJbRAu7pRocg9ZisAdUuejhfXhu4pMNhJx7HW0/w400-h266/ClayhausPhotography-IMGP1612-vF.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuMcih7feEyZKPjLEdxpXEAPhgNWb1Z04Pp5tPi7sk4etVB0WlkGjmdNeNkLP6Wrskr5ISR7gOHiDEgdUUsHFMqV8TLX000-F0LC2Q5bg1kib869S94BaVqzVyQWEZQ6_KfYE-bSvox0KigYPN0IIEqp_WPC2qqCu5I3coUyCMnCAQRbLIRaORzMfXZJQ/s2000/ClayhausPhotography-IMGP1617-vF.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1329" data-original-width="2000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuMcih7feEyZKPjLEdxpXEAPhgNWb1Z04Pp5tPi7sk4etVB0WlkGjmdNeNkLP6Wrskr5ISR7gOHiDEgdUUsHFMqV8TLX000-F0LC2Q5bg1kib869S94BaVqzVyQWEZQ6_KfYE-bSvox0KigYPN0IIEqp_WPC2qqCu5I3coUyCMnCAQRbLIRaORzMfXZJQ/w400-h266/ClayhausPhotography-IMGP1617-vF.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkqzJOOtmNahJ-A0L4ThSn01GSEEu4cevLGvEdoKG5sxsDt1ITYJQUW-8GI4xomgQv7C1KJMjmOxWlbK0cyHN0gVNpB0NAfM07ecmVy1rSDvQ18tHAkuUNatyVLOytOdlTLvNJF85b-Q4VDcf9I6-43sEnVWBXYvvQLY6zITnZLyEg4i9dyqVRyp2fCUU/s2000/ClayhausPhotography-IMGP1618-vF.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1329" data-original-width="2000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkqzJOOtmNahJ-A0L4ThSn01GSEEu4cevLGvEdoKG5sxsDt1ITYJQUW-8GI4xomgQv7C1KJMjmOxWlbK0cyHN0gVNpB0NAfM07ecmVy1rSDvQ18tHAkuUNatyVLOytOdlTLvNJF85b-Q4VDcf9I6-43sEnVWBXYvvQLY6zITnZLyEg4i9dyqVRyp2fCUU/w400-h266/ClayhausPhotography-IMGP1618-vF.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFJmeTs_kB3P_wW_igXPDcTNaiG2w-bqVmOsx9H2CY23D2WM0jsRPKgxp6Wmp6vAcZoDd-4TZwSRqK17m2-0xwyehxokxhDeXliPbPdNI0EQ-ewXyjN8eJrd49aBFu5xU4jw5jwe4twlDrF0BfP6DvCeqofCcR4YcteI_jku7BBH-dm9tp7S33_fFESj0/s2000/ClayhausPhotography-IMGP1672-vF.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1321" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFJmeTs_kB3P_wW_igXPDcTNaiG2w-bqVmOsx9H2CY23D2WM0jsRPKgxp6Wmp6vAcZoDd-4TZwSRqK17m2-0xwyehxokxhDeXliPbPdNI0EQ-ewXyjN8eJrd49aBFu5xU4jw5jwe4twlDrF0BfP6DvCeqofCcR4YcteI_jku7BBH-dm9tp7S33_fFESj0/w422-h640/ClayhausPhotography-IMGP1672-vF.jpg" width="422" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p>clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-69511899221010611092016-03-16T09:44:00.001-06:002016-03-17T13:15:46.957-06:00Meglomaniacs and Monuments<div style="text-align: center;">
...'My name is Ozymandias, king of kings:<br />
Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!'... </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
-<i> Percy Bysshe Shelley</i></div>
<br />
The preening and braying of the megalomaniacal have been well documented in stone and brick, concrete and steel from times Classical and Egyptian to Modern and Bombastic. Neither the so-called barbarous past nor the equally so-called civilized present have had a monopoly on the erecting of egotistical edifices. Indeed, for as long as there has been building, men (and men are the main offenders here) have been squandering their lands' resources -- human and otherwise -- in grand structures of self-adoration.<br />
<br />
In the year of George Washington's first State of the Union address (1790), King Bodawpaya, sixth king of the Third Burmese Empire, began his vain-glory project at Mingun. Just a short eight years before, Bodawpaya had gained the crown by disposing his nephew. Sounds like a relatively mild transition, and this is the impression that one would have if your only source for history was Wikipedia. But dig deeper one must if one wants to get closer to the truth of things. In fact, Bodawpaya had his entire family -- men, women, children, babes in arms -- and their servants burned alive. Realize that Burmese princes and kings in those days had many consorts and consequently tens if not hundreds of children. (Bodawpaya himself had 62 sons and 58 daughters by about 200 consorts.) Therefore, we are speaking of an unspeakable number of relatives executed. So much blood was shed that he abandoned his palace at Ava (south of Mandalay) fearing that it had come under an evil spell. It had of course. One generated by him. Regardless, he shortly there after began a massive stupa and pagoda building program in order to acquire enough karma to ease his way to nirvana. <br />
<br />
Bodawpaya was a fervent Buddhist who proclaimed himself the messianic Buddha destined to conquer the
world. In this self-anointed capacity he ran a-foul of and set about persecuting the Buddhist community at large. He also made drinking, smoking opium,
and killing animals punishable by death. Oh, and he built many pagodas and stupas. <br />
<br />
In addition -- as every megalomaniac with power must do -- he had other peoples and lands to conquer. To the west he quickly toppled the Arakan empire and enslaved tens of thousands of people to labor on his grand karma-building scheme. He then looked east, got greedy and invaded Siam. However, the Thai warriors (or their leadership) were of a different caliber and Bodawpaya was chased back across his borders, to eventually start his mega-stupa project at Mingun.<br />
<br />
Located a mere 11 kilometers from the royal capitol of Mandalay, the otherwise insignificant village of Mingun became the center of the Burmese world for seven years. Tens of thousands of unfortunates slaved away trying to fashion what would have been the largest stupa in the world. (A stupa is a reliquary monument.) The planned height was to be 500 feet but in 1797 one of Bodawpaya's astrologers proclaimed: "Once the great pagoda has been wrought, the dynasty will come to naught." Likely this "revelation" was fashioned in order to prevent the empire from further descending into catastrophic debt (vast sums of silver had been expended) as well as to quell a growing, restless population, tired of toiling for one man's karma. The stupa was left unfinished, a giant, 150 foot tall crumbling pile of bricks periodically rocked and fissured by earthquakes -- including a particularly vicious one in 1839, which also toppled the heads of the two gigantic royal chinthes (lion-like creatures) into the Irrawaddy River.<br />
<br />
In a way, the prophecy of that nameless astrologer eventually came true. Bodawpaya's annexing of Arakan put the Burmese next door to India and the then expanding British Empire. Over the next 60-plus years, increasing friction between the cultures led to two wars and finally a third Anglo-Burmese War that Burma was never foretold to win. In 1886 Burma disappeared as a country not to re-surface until both the Japanese were defeated and the British packed up and went home: 1948.<br />
<br />
Today, with a new president taking office and the military hopefully in permanent decline from political power, Burma -- since renamed Myanmar -- is a peaceful land to tour. Its widespread and impressive monuments are there for the exploring and viewing. Its history a more or less open book. <br />
<br />
Megalomaniacs come and go, varying by their relative degrees of atrociousness, but united in their <span class="st">solipsism</span>. We never seem to stop spawning them as power and desire are an intoxicating and bewitching brew, especially so for those with no sense of history and a every sense of self. Trust too that today's Bodawpayas will bray and preen, conquer and build, eventually to go the way of all, with perhaps a monument or two for future travelers to wander through and photograph.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
... Nothing beside remains. Round the decay<br />
Of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare<br />
The lone and level sands stretch far away.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
-<i> Percy Bysshe Shelley</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RlTLlZPUKwg/Vul7--3mB2I/AAAAAAAAJYY/wROkOZSaLrIPwp4Z2Ze-U60tMNwV23SXw/s1600/clayhaus-CLAY6639-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RlTLlZPUKwg/Vul7--3mB2I/AAAAAAAAJYY/wROkOZSaLrIPwp4Z2Ze-U60tMNwV23SXw/s320/clayhaus-CLAY6639-Edit.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Irrawaddy River Approach to Mingun<i><br /></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OhQL_CSxpOE/Vul8RsEzabI/AAAAAAAAJYg/_TCeRjUpb-Yik0avHGTTRl_XVSeMOgPVA/s1600/clayhaus-CLAY0388_9-pm-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OhQL_CSxpOE/Vul8RsEzabI/AAAAAAAAJYg/_TCeRjUpb-Yik0avHGTTRl_XVSeMOgPVA/s320/clayhaus-CLAY0388_9-pm-Edit.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rump-end of Earthquake-Damaged Chinthe</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9bSU-KPSYKI/Vul8idTU2LI/AAAAAAAAJYo/CFfoGfXRD5A-0ZVd8DxyD9FVSdFUcW7sg/s1600/clayhaus-CLAY0404-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9bSU-KPSYKI/Vul8idTU2LI/AAAAAAAAJYo/CFfoGfXRD5A-0ZVd8DxyD9FVSdFUcW7sg/s320/clayhaus-CLAY0404-Edit.jpg" width="207" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entrance to the One Extant Shrine of Mingun Pahtodawgyi </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-alYQgOcPcWs/Vul8-BjUc1I/AAAAAAAAJY0/3vydyLkEN1U-xjBogYg35RdObr9s_3-NQ/s1600/clayhaus-mingun-pano-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-alYQgOcPcWs/Vul8-BjUc1I/AAAAAAAAJY0/3vydyLkEN1U-xjBogYg35RdObr9s_3-NQ/s320/clayhaus-mingun-pano-1.jpg" width="284" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Earthquake Damage of Bodawpaya's Stupa</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WVkDOeESitg/Vul9RDUg8-I/AAAAAAAAJZA/MSx44jz7WKkA7fKA5DMl27WzsNutdgFJw/s1600/clayhaus-mingun-pano-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="313" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WVkDOeESitg/Vul9RDUg8-I/AAAAAAAAJZA/MSx44jz7WKkA7fKA5DMl27WzsNutdgFJw/s320/clayhaus-mingun-pano-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">South Facade of Bodawpaya's Stupa (Mingun Pahtodawgyi)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7E0GxwBPpg4/Vul9d_XDirI/AAAAAAAAJZI/rteeCOgvjAsInbQvvg2uav2H4Dr3cFzhA/s1600/clayhaus-CLAY0432_3-pm-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7E0GxwBPpg4/Vul9d_XDirI/AAAAAAAAJZI/rteeCOgvjAsInbQvvg2uav2H4Dr3cFzhA/s320/clayhaus-CLAY0432_3-pm-Edit.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More Earthquake Damage </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rl8S-o--Fvk/Vul9nzWXUvI/AAAAAAAAJZU/i6TdohkTUhU3uYgZb_TQFbhnA16gdEolg/s1600/clayhaus-CLAY0436_7-pm-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rl8S-o--Fvk/Vul9nzWXUvI/AAAAAAAAJZU/i6TdohkTUhU3uYgZb_TQFbhnA16gdEolg/s320/clayhaus-CLAY0436_7-pm-Edit.jpg" width="228" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">West Facade</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MnoEcMG7JNk/Vul9uUPDm2I/AAAAAAAAJZc/HLZnE5vDnYM95ZbB2Njkf1QSXOgxJ3A9g/s1600/clayhaus-mingun-pano-vista1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="146" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MnoEcMG7JNk/Vul9uUPDm2I/AAAAAAAAJZc/HLZnE5vDnYM95ZbB2Njkf1QSXOgxJ3A9g/s320/clayhaus-mingun-pano-vista1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Panorama View from Top of Ruined, Incomplete Stupa</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hBjSr_2uHdU/Vul99YY_9KI/AAAAAAAAJZo/SdJDIAnBwkUhRcKY-RDpkdzdxNnEhb93A/s1600/clayhaus-CLAY0456_7-pm-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1"></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YdWulgjLcac/Vul-G6_MuKI/AAAAAAAAJZ0/8qOfiFcbnNsxOvw8E8AFWFMxnL8ZSN3kw/s1600/clayhaus-CLAY0456_7-pm-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YdWulgjLcac/Vul-G6_MuKI/AAAAAAAAJZ0/8qOfiFcbnNsxOvw8E8AFWFMxnL8ZSN3kw/s320/clayhaus-CLAY0456_7-pm-Edit.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Irrawaddy River and the Rear Ends of Damaged Chinthes</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo-Ops for Monks</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monks Just Wanna Have Fun, Too</td></tr>
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clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-90398955325813494932013-08-27T07:17:00.000-06:002013-08-27T07:28:47.626-06:00 Takk Fyrir<span style="font-family: Cambria;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">I’ve <a href="http://www.clayhausruminations.com/2009/09/govorim-zeno-malo-slovensko.html" target="_blank">written before</a> about the importance of learning even just a little bit of the language of the country you are visiting. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Cambria;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">From a practical purpose, of course, being able to ask rudimentary questions as well as read the occasional sign helps one get from point A to point B. Additionally, the culture of a land and its peoples are wrapped up and bound by its dialects. Know a bit of a language and you are closer (if even marginally) to understanding a people. </span></span><br />
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You also better represent your own country (remember: we are all ambassadors) if you don’t travel with the hubris of the colonizers. Did the 19th century British take the time to learn even a few of the Indian tongues once they conquered that sub-continent? Did the French, Germans, Portuguese, Italians and Flemish bother with the various African dialects when they part-and-parceled that diverse and sprawling land? Do we Americans – the <u>current</u> capitalist-consumer winners of the economic wars of the last 50 years – do we make the effort to understand a modicum of where we travel? Some do, of course, but most do not.</span></span><br />
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There is another upside to being able to communicate with the locals. One not centered on us. One that did not occur to me until my flight back from Iceland.</span></span><br />
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Icelandic – despite being an Indo-European language – is a difficult language to learn, much less master. This was our second trip to the far northern volcanic island and admittedly six years ago I did a much better job of studying up on the language before our departure, despite this time buying a new book and CD learning tool (more on this in another post). So, for this journey, I was equipped with just a few phrases.</span></span><br />
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A simple <i>takk fyrir</i> – thank you – was one of them. </span></span><br />
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Seeing the momentary joy accompanied by a smile flick across the face of a waitress, an immigrations officer, the hotel receptionist, as I said <i>takk fyrir</i> was worth the small price to learn it. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Cambria;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">It’s a cost of admission we can all afford.</span></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Cambria;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Rainy Scenes Seen Around Reykjavík<i>...</i> </span></span></b><br />
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clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-26412637353002110412013-04-27T23:37:00.000-06:002014-03-23T10:31:07.255-06:00Travels with Oka-san | Acres of SushiOur second day in Tokyo is to be an abbreviated one as our evening destination is the shogunate shrine and burial grounds of <span class="st">Nikkō</span>, slightly less than two hours by train north of the capital. But before jumping on that train, we rise early to visit the world's largest wholesale seafood market: the<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Tokyo Metropolitan Central Wholesale Market<span class="Apple-converted-space"> more</span> commonly known as<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Tsukiji Market.<br />
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It's a relatively short walk to the Tsukiji area (Tsukiji means "reclaimed land" as the land was originally 'reclaimed' from Tokyo Bay in the 18th century) but first we need to work our way through the maze of modernity of Shiodome, once again. The sky is overcast, which lends a bit more of a leaden atmosphere to the looming skyscrapers.<br />
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If you get to Tsukiji (meaning the market, not just the area) early enough, around 5am, you can try to get in to see the tuna auctions. This is supposedly a scene worth seeing, where thousands, if not hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of <i>maguro</i> and <i>toro</i> are auctioned off. We are not there near early enough for that, but that's okay as there are over 45 acres of stalls, and tanks, and fish, and more fish to wander through and explore.<br />
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What a wonderful place and experience for fish lovers! Or, rather, for those that love to eat fish. A huge, swirling mass of activity confounds one at first. Small cars and forklifts zipping hither and thither all the while trying to avoid buyers with clip boards, vendors with handcarts, workers riding bicycles balancing boxes, and tourists with wide eyes and cameras. There clearly must be some order in the seeming chaos but I just let my eyes pull me along.<br />
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From clams to snails to eels (live and not), blowfish, shrimp and flash-frozen tuna, <i>uni</i>, <i>tako, anago</i> and <i>ika</i> and <i>hotategai</i> and things I have no idea what they are....it goes on and on and on. I take hundreds of photos and the more I wander, the hungrier I get. Nothing puts me off my growing appetite. Not the squirming baby eels and not the bloody <i>maguro</i> carcasses. Certainly not the <i>fugu</i> or <i>kazunoko</i>.<br />
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Our hunger finally gets the better of us and we venture to the outer market area where there are a dozen or so small (tiny, actually: 7-10 stools each) sushi restaurants. We have an incredibly fresh sushi breakfast. (Sound good to you? Perhaps not, but to this day, it is still one of the best and memorable breakfasts.)<br />
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Why does the market not smell of fish? It really doesn't. Could it be that because of the combination of extremely fresh, flash frozen, and packaged seafood, the thousands (tens of thousands?) of fish just do not have a chance to go off? That may be the case, but I don't want to test the theory in the midst of summer!<br />
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By late morning it is clear that the 1000's of workers are wrapping up for the day so we move on and eventually end up watching some kind of strange activities at an elementary school. Strange to me anyway. The children are all wearing white shirts and white caps with black shorts for the girls and white shorts for the boys. There must be different teams and what differentiates them are brightly colored gloves. There is some kind of quasi-organized, pseudo-choreographed jumping and hand-waving accompanied by lots of smiling and mugging and grinning. Then it is down to the serious business of running track. I can only speculate that the previous gyrations and gesticulations were a bit of cheer-leading. I can only guess.<br />
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Prior to heading to our hotel to gather up our belongings for the train ride, we briefly stop at the very Southeast Asia looking Buddhist temple of Tsukiji Hongan-ji. We didn't go inside, though it is supposed to nice.<br />
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It's been a bit of whirlwind Tokyo visit but with acres of sushi behind us — minus quite a few ounces in our bellies — we are ready to move to bright greens and lacquered reds of <span class="st">Nikkō</span>. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shiodome Highrise</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shiodome Highrise</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shiodome Highrise</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mollusks and other Delicacies</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ikura, salmon roe</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clams, etc...tasty looking, no?</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of my favorites: Uni, or sea urchin roe</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cAt88vYZXp0/UXqqAL4ZxbI/AAAAAAAAHFo/5N4bDMQe47c/s1600/IMGP3221-au.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cAt88vYZXp0/UXqqAL4ZxbI/AAAAAAAAHFo/5N4bDMQe47c/s320/IMGP3221-au.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It takes two to wield a <i style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: white; color: black; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 13px; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 19.1875px; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px;">maguro bōchō</i><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: white; color: black; display: inline !important; float: none; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 19.1875px; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0fUMG1jTiqc/UXqqDqspw-I/AAAAAAAAHFw/sc5vV3mVU30/s1600/IMGP3233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0fUMG1jTiqc/UXqqDqspw-I/AAAAAAAAHFw/sc5vV3mVU30/s320/IMGP3233.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buyers and sellers</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unagi...barbequed eel...ummmmmmm</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It glistens, must be fresh but not sure what exactly it is</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fVrJPu_Zl8o/UXqqIXOhECI/AAAAAAAAHGI/LQODpVSntic/s1600/IMGP3237.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fVrJPu_Zl8o/UXqqIXOhECI/AAAAAAAAHGI/LQODpVSntic/s320/IMGP3237.jpg" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And yet more Unagi!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FVjobTyOtqk/UXqqIy8MiDI/AAAAAAAAHGM/Z4ikw8Iso4g/s1600/IMGP3246-au.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FVjobTyOtqk/UXqqIy8MiDI/AAAAAAAAHGM/Z4ikw8Iso4g/s320/IMGP3246-au.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The expensive, deadly and supposedly very tasty fugu or puffer fish</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FeTiZTeyi0A/UXqqJ2e4q5I/AAAAAAAAHGY/cfvFcTFACMc/s1600/IMGP3257.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FeTiZTeyi0A/UXqqJ2e4q5I/AAAAAAAAHGY/cfvFcTFACMc/s320/IMGP3257.jpg" height="152" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Miles of fish aisles</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-12ZTY1DJTeA/UXqqK28xULI/AAAAAAAAHGg/-gqWjXWWyTQ/s1600/IMGP3262.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-12ZTY1DJTeA/UXqqK28xULI/AAAAAAAAHGg/-gqWjXWWyTQ/s320/IMGP3262.jpg" height="160" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Weave your way through the boxes</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f5zdmwOIVnI/UXqqPPF3g2I/AAAAAAAAHGw/MqyOKDoVHDg/s1600/IMGP3265.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f5zdmwOIVnI/UXqqPPF3g2I/AAAAAAAAHGw/MqyOKDoVHDg/s320/IMGP3265.jpg" height="192" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colorful seafood goodness, packaged and ready to go</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nzu1DNRgC7U/UXqqQXbTo6I/AAAAAAAAHG4/CSqwGD-vDk4/s1600/IMGP3266.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nzu1DNRgC7U/UXqqQXbTo6I/AAAAAAAAHG4/CSqwGD-vDk4/s320/IMGP3266.jpg" height="320" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gotta love that tako (octopus)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CkEDQT6f2XE/UXqqOwhMrxI/AAAAAAAAHGo/NSHoEUHEKkI/s1600/IMGP3267.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CkEDQT6f2XE/UXqqOwhMrxI/AAAAAAAAHGo/NSHoEUHEKkI/s320/IMGP3267.jpg" height="320" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I think the difference in color indicates cooked (dark red) and fresh</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iRxomDEKWVg/UXqqSy-DHHI/AAAAAAAAHHA/EdPkJpdBFr8/s1600/IMGP3270.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iRxomDEKWVg/UXqqSy-DHHI/AAAAAAAAHHA/EdPkJpdBFr8/s320/IMGP3270.jpg" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I ate sea snails once at a sushi restaurant in Berkeley...an 'acquired' taste, shall we say</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yBvzP-doQ5c/UXqqTICwqSI/AAAAAAAAHHE/yKGo_mRNSEw/s1600/IMGP3274.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yBvzP-doQ5c/UXqqTICwqSI/AAAAAAAAHHE/yKGo_mRNSEw/s320/IMGP3274.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Everyone act normal: the health inspectors are here!"</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ep0dZd-pqd8/UXqqVNzcZxI/AAAAAAAAHHQ/-zk7UeJzCU4/s1600/IMGP3276.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ep0dZd-pqd8/UXqqVNzcZxI/AAAAAAAAHHQ/-zk7UeJzCU4/s320/IMGP3276.jpg" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ika (squid) or perhaps cuttlefish in their own ink</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wXXM0hVPjp0/UXqqV9NrzmI/AAAAAAAAHHY/QxM9Hyn-lsw/s1600/IMGP3279.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wXXM0hVPjp0/UXqqV9NrzmI/AAAAAAAAHHY/QxM9Hyn-lsw/s320/IMGP3279.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flash frozen tuna</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HuUHZ8lWiZY/UXqqawiWOdI/AAAAAAAAHHo/A1869LjcjMU/s1600/IMGP3283.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HuUHZ8lWiZY/UXqqawiWOdI/AAAAAAAAHHo/A1869LjcjMU/s320/IMGP3283.jpg" height="320" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BIG tako</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hHnZanidlbE/UXqqX0ON6II/AAAAAAAAHHg/NgES0uXKat0/s1600/IMGP3292.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hHnZanidlbE/UXqqX0ON6II/AAAAAAAAHHg/NgES0uXKat0/s320/IMGP3292.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The hurdy-gurdy business that is tsukiji</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LaklM_TUPtg/UXqqfAnqbnI/AAAAAAAAHIA/qGkyDlE8-lc/s1600/IMGP5929.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LaklM_TUPtg/UXqqfAnqbnI/AAAAAAAAHIA/qGkyDlE8-lc/s320/IMGP5929.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mind your fingers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S1vU472kukQ/UXqqfuJsodI/AAAAAAAAHIM/vGLP2zCjaE8/s1600/IMGP5934.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S1vU472kukQ/UXqqfuJsodI/AAAAAAAAHIM/vGLP2zCjaE8/s320/IMGP5934.jpg" height="205" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It is big and serious business</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3Mfm_B0V-qY/UXqqa-0fhgI/AAAAAAAAHHs/nF0cBBaj27I/s1600/IMGP3297.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3Mfm_B0V-qY/UXqqa-0fhgI/AAAAAAAAHHs/nF0cBBaj27I/s320/IMGP3297.jpg" height="320" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our breakfast spot</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JRMvkW6jmEM/UXqqb9NMykI/AAAAAAAAHH4/wiIHxXtzi5Y/s1600/IMGP3300-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JRMvkW6jmEM/UXqqb9NMykI/AAAAAAAAHH4/wiIHxXtzi5Y/s320/IMGP3300-Edit.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another one of the small restaurants in the outer market</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FoqBvHnZXno/UXqqiTFSFsI/AAAAAAAAHIY/SHzfH57-P1Q/s1600/IMGP5936.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FoqBvHnZXno/UXqqiTFSFsI/AAAAAAAAHIY/SHzfH57-P1Q/s320/IMGP5936.jpg" height="256" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Directing tsukiji traffic</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XyyfKwIh-xQ/UXqqkowowzI/AAAAAAAAHIk/saoaJJs97SI/s1600/IMGP5940.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XyyfKwIh-xQ/UXqqkowowzI/AAAAAAAAHIk/saoaJJs97SI/s320/IMGP5940.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A local tsukiji elementary school</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--_rVlfiWOtI/UXqqn6h2-HI/AAAAAAAAHIw/G1VsoJuQnI0/s1600/IMGP5942-au.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--_rVlfiWOtI/UXqqn6h2-HI/AAAAAAAAHIw/G1VsoJuQnI0/s320/IMGP5942-au.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Too much fun, apparently</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-N8b7rYBan20/UXqqox_ZODI/AAAAAAAAHI8/1ed2Agz44yM/s1600/IMGP5946-au.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-N8b7rYBan20/UXqqox_ZODI/AAAAAAAAHI8/1ed2Agz44yM/s320/IMGP5946-au.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not sure really but they are having a good time</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JXXjuWg6Dlw/UXqqoV5hPOI/AAAAAAAAHI4/tkt3ET5MHhE/s1600/IMGP5949.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JXXjuWg6Dlw/UXqqoV5hPOI/AAAAAAAAHI4/tkt3ET5MHhE/s320/IMGP5949.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes, and more of that hand-waving business</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-abJkhr8R2zY/UXqqqN9weJI/AAAAAAAAHJI/tl2_f8vXyQY/s1600/IMGP5952.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-abJkhr8R2zY/UXqqqN9weJI/AAAAAAAAHJI/tl2_f8vXyQY/s320/IMGP5952.jpg" height="156" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Check out the determination on these girls' faces</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5BiMDKtCQKM/UXqqfdwcr5I/AAAAAAAAHIE/kaPJ44nt14U/s1600/IMGP3314-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5BiMDKtCQKM/UXqqfdwcr5I/AAAAAAAAHIE/kaPJ44nt14U/s320/IMGP3314-Edit.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tsukiji Hongan-ji</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-11ZWedLYzxg/UXqqq6qvI1I/AAAAAAAAHJQ/UCQHMHoi6Tg/s1600/IMGP5958.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-11ZWedLYzxg/UXqqq6qvI1I/AAAAAAAAHJQ/UCQHMHoi6Tg/s320/IMGP5958.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A fitting billboard end to our tsukiji experience</td></tr>
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<br />clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-84492477196468780082013-04-13T10:06:00.001-06:002014-03-23T10:33:05.284-06:00Travels with Oka-san | Tokyo Deluge<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After six hours of restful sleep, I feel ready for Tokyo.<br />
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I meet mama-san for what I swear will be my last Western-style breakfast in Japan and by 8 we are out the hotel door and ready for adventure. A light drizzle greets us but we remain undeterred from our day's goals: the Imperial Palace gardens and a stroll through Ginza.<br />
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For almost 300 years, until the Meiji restoration in 1868, the Tokugawa Shoguns governed Japan from their castle in Edo, modern-day Tokyo. Once the shogunate was deposed, the Emperors ruled from the castle. Nothing lasts forever though, and World War II saw the almost complete destruction via aerial fire-bombing of the palace, and indeed, most of Tokyo itself. Following the war, the palace was rebuilt and gardens re-planted. The emperor and imperial train still reside there, though 'ruling' is no longer their role. The buildings and inner gardens are not open to the public, however the extensive outer gardens are open for strolling. With a few remnants of the original walls, ponds, extensive trees and walkways mixed with splashes of flowering color, stolid rocks, and the occasional restored traditional building, the gardens are usually teeming with tourists and natives alike, seeking quiet respite from the modern chaos that is Tokyo.<br />
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By the time we emerge from our short subway ride and the long, underground walkway tunnel from the station to the Imperial grounds, the word 'teeming' can only be applied to the rain falling. From drizzle to torrents in short order. Donning rain-jackets and opening umbrellas we are ready for what Tokyo is gives us...I just wish I had galoshes with me as well. <br />
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It is hard to see the smoking ruin that we left Tokyo in 1945 for all the green now around us. Once again a reminder that re-growth and rejuvenation can always be possible, is, in fact, the 'natural' order of things, given time. The exquisitely built <i>bashōs</i> (guard houses) and tea pavilions, lovely ponds (with obligatory <i>koi</i>), swan-adorned moats and sculptured walkways transport one far away from the proverbial hustle and bustle outside the grounds. It is a pleasure exploring and despite the continuing, actually relentless, downpour, we are refreshed by what we see.<br />
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To a point. After a couple of hours, the completely soaked through shoes begin to chill as the squeege-squeege sounds of walking begin to annoy. The thoughts of food, hot tea and warm shelter entice. Where to go on such a beastly day? Mitsukoshi of course! The grand dame of Japanese department stores. The Harrod of the East (never mind American upstarts like Macys or Nordstroms), Mitsukoshi was founded in 1673 and began by selling kimonos. Now a huge conglomerate, the main store in the Nihonbashi area, is just a few steps from the Imperial grounds.<br />
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After beating our way through a few blocks of torrential downpours, we arrive at our destination. Petite Japanese women in matching uniforms bow and greet the soggy patrons as they enter, including us, the soggiest of the lot. We wander through ten floors, admiring the Japanese aesthetic in the various displays, and prices, not for the faint of heart. There are restaurants on the 4th, 5th, 7th, and 10th floors and when we finally choose one, the warming donburi ramen and tea are just what we need.<br />
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Fortified, we set out to wander more floors of this teeming shopping metropolis and stumble quite accidentally upon a floor with the 54th annual exhibit of Japanese handicrafts. Beautiful colorful kimonos, stunning displays of pottery, intricate baskets, and finely wrought lacquer ware greet us as we move from room to seemingly endless room. We could, as I am sure many locals did, spend the entire rest of the day wandering through the department store-cum-museum, but instead we elect to weather the weather once again.<br />
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Stepping outside, the rain has mercifully let up and we beginning walking towards the Ginza District. First we must cross the Nihonbashi. "Japan Bridge" was originally Edobashi in the 1600s, a wooden bridge that was the beginning — or ending, depending upon your direction — of the ancient Tōkaidō road between Edo and Kyoto. From this bridge, once upon a time, travelers heading south could see Mt. Fuji. Renamed and rebuilt with stone in the Meiji period and now more or less covered by an expressway, one could cross the Nihonbashi and be forgiven for not immediately grasping its historical significance.<br />
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Ginza, now known the world-over as one of the most upscale of botiqueries and shopping areas, got its start in the early 17th century as the location of the silver mint for the shogunate. Appropriate, as anything you buy on this street will cost you that said mint. We are not here to shop though, but instead to stroll and soak in the experience. We luck out as on Sunday — during the daylight hours — the main Ginza drag has been turned into a pedestrian-only zone. Walking the normally frenetic streets with casually strolling Japanese, umbrellas on shoulders, is a visual and photographic treat.<br />
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We eventually end up back at our hotel and after freshening up — and changing our thoroughly sodden shoes for dry ones — we venture back out for dinner and the nighttime version of Ginza. Dinner was superb: sushi, tempura, rice with fish and sake, all in a small, crowded restaurant where we are the only English speakers. Perfect.<br />
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After few photos of Ginza at night, the long day finally takes its toll on us: sleep, sleep and the next day...a new adventure.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nm4i0F5OR3g/UWl_Be-RcSI/AAAAAAAAHBI/k8K-0p1DygI/s1600/IMGP3067-au-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nm4i0F5OR3g/UWl_Be-RcSI/AAAAAAAAHBI/k8K-0p1DygI/s320/IMGP3067-au-Edit.jpg" height="191" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Underground Walkway from Shinbashi Train Station </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PrltRrLpPdc/UWl_CTWUx1I/AAAAAAAAHBQ/QopYX4L3h3A/s1600/IMGP3073-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PrltRrLpPdc/UWl_CTWUx1I/AAAAAAAAHBQ/QopYX4L3h3A/s320/IMGP3073-Edit.jpg" height="320" width="228" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Imperial Palace Walls</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Flj1F6yuSXs/UWl_DjNbxeI/AAAAAAAAHBY/E56_aa1FQzY/s1600/IMGP3074-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Flj1F6yuSXs/UWl_DjNbxeI/AAAAAAAAHBY/E56_aa1FQzY/s320/IMGP3074-Edit.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Basho or Guardhouse</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E5BylVj8isY/UWl_FM750gI/AAAAAAAAHBg/cgo3Fnf8zsA/s1600/IMGP3081-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E5BylVj8isY/UWl_FM750gI/AAAAAAAAHBg/cgo3Fnf8zsA/s320/IMGP3081-Edit.jpg" height="195" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Castle Walls</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--0m5XPXLfdU/UWl_IlTThUI/AAAAAAAAHBo/I8c_C_cCWIU/s1600/IMGP3085-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--0m5XPXLfdU/UWl_IlTThUI/AAAAAAAAHBo/I8c_C_cCWIU/s320/IMGP3085-Edit.jpg" height="185" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Imperial Gardens</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nTML9teiPxM/UWl_JY2j8nI/AAAAAAAAHBw/itiDdt2JWkU/s1600/IMGP3076-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nTML9teiPxM/UWl_JY2j8nI/AAAAAAAAHBw/itiDdt2JWkU/s320/IMGP3076-Edit.jpg" height="320" width="228" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Imperial Gardens</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uDdMyOaoG5Q/UWl_OxthtaI/AAAAAAAAHB4/KQgGLwH1r6w/s1600/IMGP3098-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uDdMyOaoG5Q/UWl_OxthtaI/AAAAAAAAHB4/KQgGLwH1r6w/s320/IMGP3098-Edit.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Imperial Gardens</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4wo_sZ-CXCQ/UWl_PfdWxjI/AAAAAAAAHB8/hXu2cu4Xl5o/s1600/IMGP3091-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4wo_sZ-CXCQ/UWl_PfdWxjI/AAAAAAAAHB8/hXu2cu4Xl5o/s320/IMGP3091-Edit.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Imperial Gardens</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--VdgZKF-2y8/UWl_PsxJFYI/AAAAAAAAHCI/f-uBz6TDNLA/s1600/IMGP3094-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--VdgZKF-2y8/UWl_PsxJFYI/AAAAAAAAHCI/f-uBz6TDNLA/s320/IMGP3094-Edit.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Imperial Gardens</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eT_DPsyVB9k/UWl_Vg4tSLI/AAAAAAAAHCQ/biUmHPg9WLU/s1600/IMGP3102-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eT_DPsyVB9k/UWl_Vg4tSLI/AAAAAAAAHCQ/biUmHPg9WLU/s320/IMGP3102-Edit.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walkway to Tea House</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-A1W-lhCXqFM/UWl_VxjjMLI/AAAAAAAAHCU/f5EPDHWrEP8/s1600/IMGP3103-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-A1W-lhCXqFM/UWl_VxjjMLI/AAAAAAAAHCU/f5EPDHWrEP8/s320/IMGP3103-Edit.jpg" height="177" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tea Pavilion</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DU096VBuWK4/UWl_aKT1VOI/AAAAAAAAHCo/c2j7B2Scpig/s1600/IMGP3116-au.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DU096VBuWK4/UWl_aKT1VOI/AAAAAAAAHCo/c2j7B2Scpig/s320/IMGP3116-au.jpg" height="216" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Imperial Gates</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X1HaRygvJTw/UWl_bq88QJI/AAAAAAAAHCw/Mqmc9E2zOXY/s1600/IMGP3129-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X1HaRygvJTw/UWl_bq88QJI/AAAAAAAAHCw/Mqmc9E2zOXY/s320/IMGP3129-Edit.jpg" height="160" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Imperial Swan</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Qd9tO-DO8-w/UWl_bob2iYI/AAAAAAAAHC0/YQt5xqfUM7g/s1600/IMGP3124-Edit-paint.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Qd9tO-DO8-w/UWl_bob2iYI/AAAAAAAAHC0/YQt5xqfUM7g/s320/IMGP3124-Edit-paint.jpg" height="220" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gates sans Tourists</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HQWlhBP7g6c/UWl_fHvj7dI/AAAAAAAAHDA/133j9bJyrSs/s1600/IMGP3135-au.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HQWlhBP7g6c/UWl_fHvj7dI/AAAAAAAAHDA/133j9bJyrSs/s320/IMGP3135-au.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nihonbashi</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h_qucRhDymY/UWl_gJprgkI/AAAAAAAAHDI/YZt4OKifAok/s1600/IMGP3137-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h_qucRhDymY/UWl_gJprgkI/AAAAAAAAHDI/YZt4OKifAok/s320/IMGP3137-Edit.jpg" height="256" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ginza</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h_OWOUdbNck/UWl_g-0VrGI/AAAAAAAAHDM/sDMHWD4JKMQ/s1600/IMGP3140-au.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h_OWOUdbNck/UWl_g-0VrGI/AAAAAAAAHDM/sDMHWD4JKMQ/s320/IMGP3140-au.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ginza</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZRxt245czuc/UWl_kHNM1cI/AAAAAAAAHDY/QysfjOvYb64/s1600/IMGP3142-Edit2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZRxt245czuc/UWl_kHNM1cI/AAAAAAAAHDY/QysfjOvYb64/s320/IMGP3142-Edit2.jpg" height="285" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ginza</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-704Ev6B1t8E/UWl_kRQ0qmI/AAAAAAAAHDg/ryfvz2M3Xz8/s1600/IMGP3148-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-704Ev6B1t8E/UWl_kRQ0qmI/AAAAAAAAHDg/ryfvz2M3Xz8/s320/IMGP3148-Edit.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ginza</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tMcwbamjuiM/UWl_k2kAU2I/AAAAAAAAHDk/DHWeyZ-SLJQ/s1600/IMGP3147-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tMcwbamjuiM/UWl_k2kAU2I/AAAAAAAAHDk/DHWeyZ-SLJQ/s320/IMGP3147-Edit.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ginza</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JTawwvigXXE/UWl_oVa4LxI/AAAAAAAAHD4/OJ40Z8X_Y5M/s1600/IMGP3154-au-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JTawwvigXXE/UWl_oVa4LxI/AAAAAAAAHD4/OJ40Z8X_Y5M/s320/IMGP3154-au-Edit.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ginza</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aMz5Np8tV40/UWl_nmWlw4I/AAAAAAAAHDw/xOHBOdbHqVs/s1600/IMGP3160-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aMz5Np8tV40/UWl_nmWlw4I/AAAAAAAAHDw/xOHBOdbHqVs/s320/IMGP3160-Edit.jpg" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ginza</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XtwCPXoFYIU/UWl_rPQmw3I/AAAAAAAAHEI/AK08eMQJRt8/s1600/IMGP3179-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XtwCPXoFYIU/UWl_rPQmw3I/AAAAAAAAHEI/AK08eMQJRt8/s320/IMGP3179-Edit.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ginza</td></tr>
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</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EmERm-GlHhg/UWl_shPW7BI/AAAAAAAAHEY/30LrmOxqk8Y/s1600/IMGP3183-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EmERm-GlHhg/UWl_shPW7BI/AAAAAAAAHEY/30LrmOxqk8Y/s320/IMGP3183-Edit.jpg" height="182" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ginza</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-okNq11vTbJ8/UWl_siJiTRI/AAAAAAAAHEc/_GfyaZmcRa4/s1600/IMGP3188-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-okNq11vTbJ8/UWl_siJiTRI/AAAAAAAAHEc/_GfyaZmcRa4/s320/IMGP3188-Edit.jpg" height="260" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ginza</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8TdF0VcPbH4/UWmB_Yevw4I/AAAAAAAAHEk/gsaeIQOg6m0/s1600/IMGP3163-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8TdF0VcPbH4/UWmB_Yevw4I/AAAAAAAAHEk/gsaeIQOg6m0/s320/IMGP3163-Edit.jpg" height="247" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Too much sake</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span id="goog_28521089"></span><span id="goog_28521090"></span><br />clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-81482844195294045662013-04-02T22:57:00.000-06:002014-03-23T10:33:44.264-06:00Travels with Oka-san | Departure and Arrival<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">In 2007 I traveled to Japan with my mother. That year my wife — who is <span style="font-size: x-small;">usually my</span> traveling partner — and I had already journeyed to Sicily in the spring and Iceland in the fall. She was not up for another international trip but my mom was. Of course the Japanese are too polite to inquire about personal relationships, but I thought it was still important to learn this phrase: "Kore wa watashi no oka-san"..."This is my mother." </span></i></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><br /></span></i></span>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">My wife and I will finally visit Japan together later this year and in the process of planning that trip I came across my old journal from my travels with oka-san almost 6 years ago. I thought it would be interesting to serialize that trip with a number of Clayhaus Ruminations posts...<span style="font-size: x-small;">tanoshimu!</span></span></i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif; font-size: small;">In a Yellow Cab driven by a Haitian immigran<span style="font-size: small;">t, <span style="font-size: small;">watching</span> a beautiful orange and <span style="font-size: small;">blue fall sunrise, I head to to the airport. I do wish Bonnie was sitting beside me — as she <span style="font-size: small;">normally</span> would be — but I am looking forward to two week<span style="font-size: small;">s in Jap<span style="font-size: small;">an with oka-san. Tokyo, Nikko, Takayama, Kyoto<span style="font-size: small;">, Nara and finally Kamakura are on our agenda. And between sush<span style="font-size: small;">i and sake<span style="font-size: small;">, imperial castles and shogunate memorials, Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines, bullet trains and ancient paths, I know we will have very memorable trip.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">My flight to LAX is uneventful and after a coup<span style="font-size: small;">le of hours waiting in NWA<span style="font-size: small;">'s <span style="font-size: small;">equivalent</span> to Delta's Crown Ro<span style="font-size: small;">om [in those days <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Northwest_Airlines" target="_blank">Northwest Airlines</a> still existed and I was corporate <span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">traveler</span> with beaucoup de <span style="font-size: small;">Skymiles], mama-san finally shows up.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">I have a most excellent seat on the pla<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">n</span>e — aisle, exit row, and no one in front of me — </span>and mom lucks out as the <span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">J</span>apanese </span></span>guy next t<span style="font-size: small;">o me <span style="font-size: small;">exchanges his </span></span>seat for mom<span style="font-size: small;">'s.</span> I doubt I would have done the same, but his karma ba<span style="font-size: small;">nk is surely<span style="font-size: small;"> fuller than mine!</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">Consi<span style="font-size: small;">dering the vast ex<span style="font-size: small;">panse <span style="font-size: small;">of<span style="font-size: small;"> water we must cross, the flight seems relatively short: "only" eleven hours.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span> It is smooth as well and I catch a few cat-naps <span style="font-size: small;">— though no deep sleep — in between studying some Japanese and processing images from my last <span style="font-size: small;">and very different trip: to Iceland.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">Arriving in Narita <span style="font-size: small;">in the late afternoon</span> of the next day we are struck by how quiet the airport is...</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span class="st">eerily</span> so. Immigration and customs are a breeze and once the luggage is gathered up <span style="font-size: small;">(always a stre<span style="font-size: small;">s</span>sful few minutes: <span style="font-size: small;">D</span>i<span style="font-size: small;">d</span> my bag make the connection? And, if it didn't<span style="font-size: small;">, how will it ever be delivered to me?) we troop over to the Japan Railways (JR) office where we exchange our rail<span style="font-size: small;"> vo<span style="font-size: small;">uchers for<span style="font-size: small;"> passes. [The <a href="http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2361.html" target="_blank">JR pass</a> is a <span style="font-size: small;">convenient and usually cost-effective way to travel about the<span style="font-size: small;"> country.] The JR sta<span style="font-size: small;">ff are incredibly pleasant<span style="font-size: small;">, eff<span style="font-size: small;">icient<span style="font-size: small;">, and helpful. I ha<span style="font-size: small;">ve a feeling that this is going <span style="font-size: small;">to be a common refrain.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">On our way to our train I find a watch and for a moment think about keeping it. Second thought: what wou<span style="font-size: small;">ld the Japanese do? Return it, <span style="font-size: small;">w</span>hich I did, to the ticketing agents. <span style="font-size: small;">Note to self: while in Jap<span style="font-size: small;">an, score many karma points.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">Later, whilst waiting to<span style="font-size: small;"> board the train to Tokyo, <span style="font-size: small;">I see an Indian gent frantically looking for...something. A few minutes l<span style="font-size: small;">ater<span style="font-size: small;"> he return<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">s</span>, big smi<span style="font-size: small;">le planted on face, holding his <span style="font-size: small;">— <span style="font-size: small;">and mine, so <span style="font-size: small;">briefly</span> — watch. I think of saying something to him, but why? No, let it go and per<span style="font-size: small;">haps be a bit of a happy mystery to him.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tsLvEhpIvv4/UVu2eF_8zCI/AAAAAAAAG-I/kUE0mr2I_co/s1600/IMGP3065-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tsLvEhpIvv4/UVu2eF_8zCI/AAAAAAAAG-I/kUE0mr2I_co/s320/IMGP3065-Edit.jpg" height="210" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oka-san</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">The train ride<span style="font-size: small;"> into Tokyo is mercifully brie<span style="font-size: small;">f<span style="font-size: small;">: just about one hour. We emerge from the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shinbashi" target="_blank">Shimbashi</a> train station to night<span style="font-size: small;"> time. Despite never having been here before, despite not really having slept since who knows when, despite being confused as to whether it really should be night or day, despite not seeing any si<span style="font-size: small;">gn I can read, </span>I feel damn sure <span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">I know which way our hotel is. Pointing yonderly we start o<span style="font-size: small;">ut on foot th<span style="font-size: small;">rough a maze of <span style="font-size: small;">busy</span> streets an<span style="font-size: small;">d <span style="font-size: small;">then into a kind of <span style="font-size: small;">corporate wasteland. </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>The wasteland bei<span style="font-size: small;">ng the <span style="font-size: small;">modernist</span> <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shiodome" target="_blank">Shiodome</a> area that a<span style="font-size: small;">t this time of night <span style="font-size: small;">has been pretty much abandoned to the wandering and potentially lost gaijin tourists seeking hotel refuge. Seek and ye shall find and <span style="font-size: small;">more or less directly we find our <span style="font-size: small;">lovely</span> <a href="http://en.parkhoteltokyo.com/" target="_blank">Park Hotel</a></span></span></span></span>.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YBoSvtHebas/UVu2Nx2r6BI/AAAAAAAAG-A/D9rGgtV2y2E/s1600/IMGP3063-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YBoSvtHebas/UVu2Nx2r6BI/AAAAAAAAG-A/D9rGgtV2y2E/s320/IMGP3063-Edit.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Park Hotel, Tokyo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">Clea<span style="font-size: small;">n, simple, non-fussy<span style="font-size: small;"> </span>elegan<span style="font-size: small;">ce</span> greets us in the</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span> lobby as we step ou<span style="font-size: small;">t of the elevator on the</span> 25th floor of the Shi<span style="font-size: small;">o</span>dome Media b<span style="font-size: small;">uil<span style="font-size: small;">ding. Shortly we ride the elevators higher <span style="font-size: small;">and though our rooms are small, they are com<span style="font-size: small;">fortable with the famous <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Washlet" target="_blank">Toto toilets</a> and razors, slippers and PJs.</span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">It seems past time for dinner so I ask t<span style="font-size: small;">he </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span class="st">concierge</span> where we might find a rest<span style="font-size: small;">au<span style="font-size: small;">rant open. He <span style="font-size: small;">says "Why not eat in our rest<span style="font-size: small;">aurant?" Why not indeed! The foo<span style="font-size: small;">d is exotic and wonderful and <span style="font-size: small;">satisfying</span> and <span style="font-size: small;">yes, very tasty. I am going <span style="font-size: small;">to</span> like eating in Jap<span style="font-size: small;">an! </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">After dinner I feel my usual travel-re<span style="font-size: small;">lated restlessness and we wander out<span style="font-size: small;">side <span style="font-size: small;">for a quick stroll. Neither o<span style="font-size: small;">f us lasts long and <span style="font-size: small;">t</span>iredness <span style="font-size: small;">descends</span> as quickly <span style="font-size: small;">as our elevator rises. Sleep and a comfortable <span style="font-size: small;">bed beckon and I yie<span style="font-size: small;">ld.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span> clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-77081626671854689332013-02-23T08:41:00.003-07:002014-03-23T10:34:44.266-06:00A Thing and its Meaning<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ysvjppUKa8c/USji_1NsZLI/AAAAAAAAG9Y/tgiV9wSI2OQ/s1600/CLAY2683_4_5-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ysvjppUKa8c/USji_1NsZLI/AAAAAAAAG9Y/tgiV9wSI2OQ/s320/CLAY2683_4_5-Edit.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Strolling along the Danube promenade our first day in Budapest, we came upon a puzzling display of cast-metal shoes, clearly of the 1940′s vintage. They were fixed to the cement of the walkway and designed to look like the owners had just thoughtlessly left them there, cast-off and in disarray. There were men’s and women’s and small shoes for children. I thought it was an art installation of some sort. There are many of those in Europe, usually of a whimsical nature, designed to bring a smile. We played along with that thread and I had my traveling companions stick their feet in amongst the lost shoes while I took a few photos. </span><br />
<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_BaTA_8ZQjg/USji7MuC-vI/AAAAAAAAG9Q/iaOsNy1qgsc/s1600/CLAY2683_4_5-Edit-Edit-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_BaTA_8ZQjg/USji7MuC-vI/AAAAAAAAG9Q/iaOsNy1qgsc/s320/CLAY2683_4_5-Edit-Edit-Edit.jpg" height="320" width="212" /></a><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">I was seeing one thing but not its meaning.
They are a <a href="http://visitbudapest.travel/articles/one-of-budapests-most-moving-memorials-shoes-on-the-danube/" target="_blank">memorial</a> and as such are designed to bring tears not a smile to the face. The sixty pairs of shoes represent the uncounted Jews (and their supporters) that were shot and pushed into the river during the Arrow Cross (Hungarian Fascists) terror of 1944-45. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">I see the thing and now I cannot see it but for it’s meaning.
What compels people to do such things? What were the victim’s last thoughts, standing naked and shivering, awaiting that bright flash. Incomprehensible.
And though I am saddened by what it represents, we must also never forget, and for that, I am also thankful.</span>clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-16888508658780270762013-02-16T09:38:00.002-07:002013-04-23T23:41:48.499-06:00Mýrdalsjökull, Reynisdrangar and Dyrhólaey...oh my!<div class="p_embed p_image_embed"><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/imgp2554-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Imgp2554-edit" src="http://getfile8.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-02-16/vrdBFHFbJgEJujFpfgJqvCgBlrEoJamqnImJkGmbEjdtmrEElimzIIiipiIE/IMGP2554-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="335" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/imgp5738-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Imgp5738-edit" src="http://getfile1.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-02-16/rGGjBqenhGlpbzqGxcByDohhJFbibegcJwpbnpeoEpJeyApqHCltHAjBebkh/IMGP5738-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="334" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/img_0286_5_4_3-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Img_0286_5_4_3-edit" src="http://getfile0.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-02-16/zxomgfepHtwlgCugmBuEnmozjIAHijffCanncGsjeepfFFDatgdlwyhuEClI/IMG_0286_5_4_3-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="667" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/imgp5816-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Imgp5816-edit" src="http://getfile9.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-02-16/twGczEjHjgBpthsamAdiyAhnfcgkJhgDEdxptDeCljaribvvhDcsjoowEApF/IMGP5816-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="334" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/imgp5827-au-db-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Imgp5827-au-db" src="http://getfile1.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-02-16/BGIpnjzpmpzgfBCtghvwzBcBxIjwfzmBjDrCCniJlukHvhEHspCBsFtAlDeJ/IMGP5827-au-db.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="400" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/imgp5744-au-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Imgp5744-au" src="http://getfile8.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-02-16/iaDwvoytBpzGIJgygGGJbnfsqoxdfkxHisFIsiwzraeJkhwfvBCBcrqgwCFt/IMGP5744-au.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="340" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/imgp5747-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Imgp5747-edit" src="http://getfile3.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-02-16/GoJAoCoinIdqsfEveqfBIuxHvFIggFkgzcHHbkFAHutJvlDoEhBgaAhsCgkE/IMGP5747-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="625" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/img_0302-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Img_0302-edit" src="http://getfile5.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-02-16/oDJGvajsgjldvrIuEnozAnFEIzplbjyhphAgzAJipdCmnumqlrzFefjHvzbB/IMG_0302-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="375" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/imgp2458-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Imgp2458-edit" src="http://getfile1.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-02-16/yezCyGckhgzGBrqBCngfICJHatlIaxDgfekGAoaGlCjislzrCgqtihjlhksH/IMGP2458-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="334" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/imgp5840-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Imgp5840-edit" src="http://getfile0.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-02-16/FGwyqrjqdlpApdvGjFHwtxgsqFAueavHfAzBtvzrdnIiGEntydzcotDxjsBp/IMGP5840-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="357" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/imgp2479-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Imgp2479-edit" src="http://getfile1.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-02-16/kCbHitiegunmFjBvHIABidiECvFDcwaBcGfgtlIumxaCgxmDloCrlikzdzGz/IMGP2479-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="335" /></a></div><br/>In our last post -- <a title="what's in a name" href="http://www.clayhausruminations.com/2013/01/what-in-name_30.html" target="_blank">What's in a Name</a> -- we left off with discussing Katla, one of the more violent volcanoes along the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. Capping Katla is the ~600 sq. km. glacier called Mýrdalsjökull. Looking at a map of Iceland you will see some some eleven jöklar (plural for jökull, which by the way is pronounced 'yokel', more or less, and other than that, has no resemblance to our local breed) scattered about the island. They cover about 11% of the country's landmass and a jökull is of course a glacier. However, due to global warming, all of the glaciers are in rapid retreat. The largest, at around 8,300 sq. km in size, is losing about 4 km. per year.<br/><br/>Now we know what a is but what is 'Mýrdals?' If you remember from the previous post, the coastal town of Vík is actually formally know as Vík í Mýrdal. The latter word translates into English as 'mire dale.' Those are two words you are more likely to run across in Lord of the Rings rather than Facebook, as they are the more antiquated forms of 'boggy' or 'swampy' or 'marsh valley.' Mýrdalsjökull = Glacier of the boggy valley and Vík í Mýrdal = bay of the marshy valley. The reason for all the mud is the fact that the region receives up to 90 inches of rainfall annually.<br/><br/>Close by Vík are a set of basalt sea stacks known as Reynisdrangar. They rise from the stormy north Atlantic sea like the petrified masts of some ancient man-o-war. In fact, there are three similar legends related to them and at least two feature a ship. The most colorful tells the story of three trolls -- Skessudrangur, Laddrangur and Langhamar (but I think of them as Larry, Moe and Curly) -- who, whilst trying to drag a ship to shore, are caught, turned to stone and frozen in time and place by the rays of the dawn's sun. The stacks are very photo-genic from either the black basalt sand beach to the east or the high cliffs of Reynisfjall, directly above. If the weather is relatively calm (all things being relative here), you can lie upon the edge of the cliffs watching the puffins wheel about in the void between you and the stone trolls.<br/><br/>From those same cliffs, much further to the west, a headland thrusts into the sea, with a quite large puncture mark in the rock. Dyrhólaey it is, meaning, "the hill-island with the door-hole." Tour boats will float through the opening and a stunt pilot is said to have flown through it as well. The cliffs are crowded by puffins and the view from the edge of the promontory is spectacular if not vertiginous.<br/><br/>A little ways inland and with a peaceful gaze at both Dyrhólaey and Reynisdrangar, is Loftsalahellir, "upper chamber cave." Before the Vikings began arriving in the 800's it is rumored that Irish monks seeking "<a href="http://newenglandchurch.org/sermons/010318gm.htm" target="_blank">green martyrdom</a>" in the time of St. Patrick (6th-7th century) voyaged to Iceland to live solitary lives of hermits. No physical trace that I am aware of has been found of these monks. Perhaps their lives were so devoid of any physical comfort and artifices that all has been obliterated by time and the elements. Or, perhaps it is all just a myth. Regardless, an Irish monk was said to live in this cave, Loftsalahellir, sometime before the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sagas_of_Icelanders" target="_blank">Icelandic Sagas</a> place Viking council meetings there. Either way, it makes a lovely spot to have lunch as well as end this 'saga' of a blog post.<br/><br/><em>Bless í bili</em>clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-17321435091486234592013-01-30T08:54:00.000-07:002013-04-23T23:49:18.812-06:00What's in a Name?<div class="p_embed p_image_embed"><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/clayhaus-imgp5721-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-imgp5721-edit" src="http://getfile9.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-01-30/keCJgEvoDcGoGjmHeGEccCloivbhjHqnBiBmzjsuoHiylwJzjGwGEHkpjDHA/clayhaus-IMGP5721-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="334" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/clayhaus-img_0290_89_88_87-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-img_0290_89_88_87-edit" src="http://getfile1.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-01-30/jeJuhoIdzeIgvIyxGhgthvhhzuptbzlrGqDChzAxnHAqbgBEbekGhjoDkCAE/clayhaus-IMG_0290_89_88_87-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="375" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/clayhaus-img_0320-edit-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-img_0320-edit-edit" src="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-01-30/CjovEdrtwzasxGCgzCJqhBoCgJcDaFsbdmGkBkFtEqoswjkgwFwjmajneAvp/clayhaus-IMG_0320-Edit-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/clayhaus-imgp2660-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-imgp2660-edit" src="http://getfile1.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-01-30/fdIfFIyIljkifzDDoAjtIeidxsbHdEbBjuitvDamFxzfGIlHdBBhpJjicEFz/clayhaus-IMGP2660-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="237" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/clayhaus-imgp2657-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-imgp2657-edit" src="http://getfile0.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-01-30/nAperpyikomnJwmajHpxppvkmbeaoACirzJfkukgyJFDpibisfdotzgxbDwv/clayhaus-IMGP2657-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="753" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/clayhaus-imgp2559-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-imgp2559-edit" src="http://getfile8.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-01-30/rIAnhgCCJnlhahsHxooiwqHrmmnBqHvCpDoGepCIypsloqkBipBtHfochacn/clayhaus-IMGP2559-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="335" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/clayhaus-imgp2554-2555-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-imgp2554-2555" src="http://getfile9.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-01-30/EEcbephhECBquJpHrpxjfmwChzuDFehnEBnDwqbppeJdkeFsrxmwnfHqrnba/clayhaus-imgp2554-2555.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="159" /></a></div><br/>The passion for naming things is an odd human trait. Many a scientist claims to have explained some phenomenon when in truth all he has done is to give it a name.<br/><p style="text-align:center;"><em></em> — George Gaylord Simpson</p><br/> <br/><p style="text-align:center;"><em>Once you label me you negate me.</em> — Soren Kierkegaard</p><br/> <br/><p style="text-align:center;"><em>You can know the name of a bird in all the languages of the world, but when you're finished, you'll know absolutely nothing whatever about the bird... So let's look at the bird and see what it's doing -- that's what counts. I learned very early the difference between knowing the name of something and knowing something.</em> — Richard Feynman</p><br/> <br/><p style="text-align:center;"><em>Rose is a rose is a rose is a rose.</em> — Gertrude Stein</p><br/><p style="text-align:left;">Gertrude said it most succinctly and perhaps most elegantly. A thing is what it is, not what it is called. Yet, the ancient Chinese proverb — <em>The beginning of wisdom is to call things by their right names</em> — intimates that words do matter. Perhaps the Chinese were conflating wisdom with knowledge, for clearly names are important in knowledge whilst wisdom tells us that a rose is indeed a rose.</p><br/> <br/><p style="text-align:left;">Recently I began reprocessing images of a trip to Iceland I took some years back. I started labeling the images with more specificity than just “Iceland,” and began wondering about Mýrdalsjökull, Hjörleifshöfði, Reynisdrangar and other tongue-twisting place-names I was finding on my maps. Is there a history behind the name? Does the name mean something? Is a rose truly just a rose? Or, in the case of Iceland, is a <em>vík </em>a <em>vík</em>.</p><br/> <br/><p style="text-align:left;">On the southern most nub of Iceland’s coast is a small village of some 300 souls. It’s full name is Vík í Mýrdal, but everyone calls it simply Vík. Cast your eyes on a map of Iceland and scattered around the coast of the island you will find other víks: Keflavík, Grindavík, Ólafsvík, and of course the most famous vík of them all, Reykjavík. What’s with all the víks? It is not, strictly speaking an Icelandic word but rather Old Norse for ‘cove’ or ‘bay.’</p><br/> <br/><p style="text-align:left;">Some 15 kilometers east of Vík is the isolated 220 meter high headland of Hjörleifshöfði. Named after the Viking Hjörleifur Hróðmarsson, who settled there in 874, the small mountain was once a much larger promontory. Successive eruptions of the mighty Katla over the eons has caused so much flooding and carrying away of rock that Hjörleifshöfði stands isolated, a mile and a half from the sea. Returning to Mr. Hróðmarsson, apparently he was not a good provider as a year after settling on the rock his slaves revolted killing him and his free men. He is said to be buried at the highest point of the hill. His farmstead was clearly visible next to the rock for over a thousand years until the 1918 eruption of Katla finally washed away the remnants.</p><br/> <br/><p style="text-align:left;">The cause of all these volcanic disturbances lies some 20 kilometers north of Vík (as the puffin flies). Katla (derived from the Old Norse word for ‘kettle,’ the shape of which upside-down the volcano is) is a large, very active volcano partially covered by the Mýrdalsjökull glacier. It has erupted 20 times since 930 AD and is due for another, any time now. The flood waters created by one eruption is estimated to have been comparable to the combined output of the Amazon, Mississippi, Nile, and Yangtze rivers. Not something one would like to be caught in. In old days, traveling along the southern coast was greatly feared because of the deep rivers and frequent glacial floods. In July of 2011 there was a small eruption on Katla that created a jökulhlaup (glacial ‘leap’ or glacial outburst flood) that destroyed the bridge across the main highway. Watch this short video and at the :34 mark you will see Hjörleifshöfði in the distance.</p><br/><p style="text-align:left;">[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQlkGO5KsPY?rel=0]</p><br/> <br/><p style="text-align:left;">Next: Mýrdalsjökull, Reynisdrangar and Dyrhólaey</p><br/> <br/><p style="text-align:left;"></p><br/><p style="text-align:left;"></p>clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-13554912493484431122013-01-03T10:04:00.000-07:002013-04-23T23:49:18.809-06:00The Þjórsá and Dam Battles<span style="font-family:Calibri, Verdana, Helvetica, Arial;"><span style="font-size:11pt;">The mighty Þjórsá (loosely pronounced Thyor-sah) is Iceland's longest river at 230 km. Flowing turbulently down from the central highlands icecap of Hofsjökull, the Þjórsá is a classic glacial river, cutting deep ravines through lava fields, ancient and modern, and stepping through waterfalls on its way to the island’s southern coast. When we were there several Julys ago, the river was turgid and yellowish-green with silt and mud. The intensity and force of the river was most apparent at Þjófafoss, the relatively short waterfall that sits picturesquely at a bend in the river, the 2200’ high volcano Búrfell beyond. Þjófafoss means ‘Thieves Falls’ as supposedly medieval cutpurses were chucked off the ledge overlooking the swirling, foamy mass below. Not pleasant, but probably pretty quick. Búrfell, with bright green vegetation climbing up its steep lava-strewn slopes, makes a wonderful backdrop for exploring or photography. To the east the fearsome Hekla rises to almost 5000 feet. One of the most active volcanoes in Europe, Hekla was considered the literal gateway to Hell during the Middle Ages. Between 1970 and 2000 it erupted every 10 years...its overdue based on that schedule.</span></span><br/><br/><span style="font-family:Calibri, Verdana, Helvetica, Arial;"><span style="font-size:11pt;">Further upstream 2 or 3 kilometers and spanning the river is the Tröllkonuhlaup (The Giantess Waterfall). The legend states that a female troll (giant) lived in a cave in Búrfell and wanting to cross the river without getting wet, threw boulders into the Þjórsá as stepping-stones. Whatever the myth, the low falls make a great backdrop for having lunch.</span></span><br/><br/><span style="font-family:Calibri, Verdana, Helvetica, Arial;"><span style="font-size:11pt;">Upon planning a return trip to Iceland I was dismayed to read that the Icelandic government in concert with an energy consortium want to <a title="dam building" href="http://www.savingiceland.org/2011/07/mixed-feelings-about-icelands-energy-master-plan-landsvirkjun-presents-its-future-strategy/" target="_blank">build three dams on this river</a>. Now, I will be the first to admit that I am not an expert on Iceland’s energy needs, but viscerally I look at this river and wonder what ‘they’ can be thinking. Even more so when I read that <a href="http://www.savingiceland.org/2011/06/environmentalists-excluded-from-master-plan-on-the-future-of-nature-conservation/" target="_blank">no environmentalists</a> were involved in the initial plan drafting, only government officials and energy companies. Sound familiar? Fortunately the planned three dams have been <a target="_blank">put on hold</a>, though perhaps that is just a waiting game.</span></span><br/><br/><span style="font-family:Calibri, Verdana, Helvetica, Arial;"><span style="font-size:11pt;">Though our climate is very different than Iceland’s, we too in the arid Southwest have had our dam battles. At one time <a target="_blank">Floyd Dominy</a>, Bureau of Reclamation commissioner (1959-69), and others, wanted to build a series of dams on most western rivers. They were successful to a point but were finally stopped at the doorstep of the <a href="http://www.glencanyon.org/about/david-brower" target="_blank">Grand Canyon</a>. Many want to rollback the industrialization of the desert by removing <a href="http://www.livingrivers.org/campaigns/grandcanyon/article1.cfm" target="_blank">Glen Canyon Dam</a>.</span></span><br/><br/><span style="font-family:Calibri, Verdana, Helvetica, Arial;"><span style="font-size:11pt;">As simplistic and unfortunate as it may be, many facets of our current politico-socio clime can be defined by the term ‘culture wars.’ This is true too when discussing the role of humankind vis-à-vis nature. To take us out of the nature equation is unrealistic and frankly, unnatural. But even more so, the claim that we can ‘<a href="http://www.hcn.org/issues/184/5980" target="_blank">improve’ on nature</a> is laughable. We may improve our position of dominance within nature, but that is not improving nature. These are really different and opposing viewpoints. I look at the Colorado River flowing through Greater Canyonlands, or the Þjórsá winding its way through Iceland’s volcanic lowlands, and I see wilderness and want to leave it be. The Floyd Dominy’s and </span></span><span style="font-size:xx-small;"><span style="font-family:Verdana, Helvetica, Arial;"><span style="font-size:9pt;">Landsvirkjun’s (Iceland’s national energy company) of the world see lands and waters and resources to overcome, manage, and 'improve' upon. We’ve had a lot of the latter the last 200 years or so, with benefits and boondoggles and disasters aplenty. Growth for the sake of growth is the ethos of the cancer cell. Now is the time to manage our own nature and leave Nature be.</span></span></span><br/><div class="p_embed p_image_embed"><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/clayhaus-imgp1876-cln-vf-edit-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-imgp1876-cln-vf-edit-edit" src="http://getfile5.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-01-03/drBaulFjcGwokdqgGfGxFCFgfwryxCnGftGthqEIqaincBcyrBtgqaowdEFH/clayhaus-IMGP1876-cln-vF-Edit-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="334" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/clayhaus-imgp1877-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-imgp1877-edit" src="http://getfile2.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-01-03/hBJczeCxAbkjskEDgpzuznqxepuqzbsDHjhjCyDazudCwfFzdkldImthspmu/clayhaus-IMGP1877-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="746" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/clayhaus-img_0197-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-img_0197-edit" src="http://getfile3.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-01-03/jrgdlGuszfinmbxofAqefIpEfAofjJwlutggjjuIGvFistssFHEIJHrBJiyh/clayhaus-IMG_0197-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="375" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/clayhaus-imgp1882-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-imgp1882-edit" src="http://getfile2.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-01-03/InCJhAJraCbifBJCECFdrxbDbDeghbsrtzGllfahqBDlFCirfyEviGmJjAtl/clayhaus-IMGP1882-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="335" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/clayhaus-img_0200-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-img_0200-edit" src="http://getfile5.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-01-03/JvCsIsdvgABkJCrslgsnkqmCdgCvfoiAHxvEzCAvbHwsdCiwinCyaEjJgjHc/clayhaus-IMG_0200-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="375" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/clayhaus-img_0206-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-img_0206-edit" src="http://getfile0.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-01-03/CHftdFGckoqufIlpyaqrucGfmdIdoeBgnlpFyeBBacdcBClkrBzesJyjmoze/clayhaus-IMG_0206-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="667" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/clayhaus-imgp1884-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-imgp1884-edit" src="http://getfile6.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-01-03/qkfjrGEcwnaAteFHJngeAElrvFCxJBxwgqghkmntcesroAquuaecJwmGECGi/clayhaus-IMGP1884-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="334" /></a><a href="http://getfile3.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-01-03/BbjwcFHxuwtyBpzyymEAlvqwfbbyqxminIAtak<br /><br /><br /><br/>ErnwntFscrqciCnzvvoGxc/clayhaus-IMG_0202-Edit.jpg.scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-img_0202-edit" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/clayhaus-img_0202-edit-scaled500.jpg?w=300" width="500" height="375" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/clayhaus-img_0204-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-img_0204-edit" src="http://getfile1.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-01-03/qfngkcljhxFhyzdJabxHoripskrqEEulthdhvosDElwmBjezHbfhjlHebnyv/clayhaus-IMG_0204-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="375" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/clayhaus-imgp1899-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-imgp1899-edit" src="http://getfile9.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-01-03/uztxryDGJeyJfHsmnttsibcEABCtpCiewgnnfJuqdFlaqvmxEhpBwAcnmzet/clayhaus-IMGP1899-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="334" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/clayhaus-img_0211-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-img_0211-edit" src="http://getfile7.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2013-01-03/zDjlkckCatzoapIbrBEDffJaDeEekxrlfJaIonyjmAshEjrexeEonzioqBcl/clayhaus-IMG_0211-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="500" /></a></div>clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-62853953801839675172012-12-04T08:10:00.000-07:002013-04-23T23:49:18.842-06:00The Mystery of Castello dei Conti Ubertini<p>Castello dei Conti Ubertini...what were you?</p><p><br />Heading into the Casentino Valley via the twisty-turny Strada Provinciale 60, shortly after the hamlet of Chitignano is a narrow, dirt one-way road on the left with a rusted yellow sign next to it. “Castello dei Conti Ubertini Sec XII” it intones. A castle, 12th century...what’s not to like? Down the lane after about 100 meters is an open field and the rambling hulk of the castello, bordered by green and yellowing trees. Not the classic form of a castle, per se, but rather a pile of irregular rectangular stone boxes stacked helter-skelter. Old yes, twelfth century, perhaps, somewhere. But what I see is a contagion of styles and centuries. What it was, is clearly not what it is.<p /> Castello dei Conti Ubertini...what are you?<p />On the southern perimeter is an old wall and perhaps a ditch. Was this part of some long-lost defensive design? On the north side the narrow ribbon of a lane continues, cast in shadow by the tall, overgrown trees and the looming outer façade of the structure. Structures with a plural ‘s’ is likely more accurate as there are clearly multiple buildings that have grown together in some organic though seemingly chaotic fashion. Walking up the lane and into the shadows, heavy fortified windows peer downward whilst higher, mounted on a decoratively curving upper wall, stand six to seven Renaissance figures. The angle is so acute that I cannot guess whether the figures are male or female, filled with gaiety or glowering with menace. They are just there and probably have been for some 400 years.<p />Castello dei Conti Ubertini...what are you?<p />Passing through the stalwart portal, the light goes dim as the think walls shield from sun and arrows alike. On the inside are gun ports offering a wide range of fire on potential hostile guests. Into the main courtyard — for clearly that’s what it was — I can now see how complete the transition has been from ancient castello to working villa. There is a barn-like structure to the west, on the brow of the hill and the portal I passed through is now part of three story living quarters. What affairs — both intimo and politico — have been conducted behind those green shutters? Did troops mill about or bivouac under smoky fires in this courtyard? Did clerics argue and prattle on about holy business whilst enjoying the Tuscan sun and perhaps a glass of the local quaff? The main entrance lays before me: a heavy brown door, protected by a gun port, a door bell, and above, a belfry. No Proprietà Privata or the even more ubiquitous Attenti al Cane signs decorate the castle walls, so I feel free to loiter and linger a bit longer. Treading back down the lane whilst the blustery wind kicks brown leaves into mini whirlpools, I can only wonder...<p />Castello dei Conti Ubertini...what were you?<p />----------------------------------<p /><em>With roots extending over a millennia, the castle is recorded to having belonged to the Count of Chiusi (an old Etruscan town) in the early 13th century. In 1262 it passed into the control of the Counts of Ubertini. Ghibelline supporters of the Holy Roman Emperor, they were defeated at the Battle of Campaldino in 1280 by the Guelph (supporters of the Pope) Florentine forces and the castle (and much of the Ubertini possessions) passed to the Bishop of Arezzo and the Guidi family of Florence. The castle was restored (modernized) in the 16th century and though it is now privately owned, with prior arrangements it may be toured.</em></p><p><div class='p_embed p_image_embed'><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/clayhaus-clay7379-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-clay7379-edit" height="331" src="http://getfile0.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2012-12-04/gskxDprckiGlryhcvHqlCfAjEgBJfxqiIEfAfodBHDCDEJiikHneqvIGFrIh/clayhaus-CLAY7379-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" /></a><img alt="Clayhaus-imgp3388_nik-edit" height="700" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/clayhaus-imgp3388_nik-edit-scaled500.jpg?w=198" width="464" /><img alt="Clayhaus-imgp3391_2_3-edit-edit" height="700" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/clayhaus-imgp3391_2_3-edit-edit-scaled500.jpg?w=214" width="500" /><img alt="Clayhaus-imgp3398_399_400-edit" height="700" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/clayhaus-imgp3398_399_400-edit-scaled500.jpg?w=199" width="465" /><img alt="Clayhaus-imgp3401_2_3-edit" height="700" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/clayhaus-imgp3401_2_3-edit-scaled500.jpg?w=198" width="463" /><img alt="Clayhaus-imgp3407_8_9-edit" height="700" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/clayhaus-imgp3407_8_9-edit-scaled500.jpg?w=198" width="463" /><img alt="Clayhaus-imgp4735-edit" height="700" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/clayhaus-imgp4735-edit-scaled500.jpg?w=201" width="469" /><img alt="Clayhaus-imgp4742-edit" height="700" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/clayhaus-imgp4742-edit-scaled500.jpg?w=201" width="469" /><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/clayhaus-imgp4744-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-imgp4744-edit" height="335" src="http://getfile5.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2012-12-04/ajBtngGuwbDlrkgJICxHuocxcfpeCeefDflklavBHqgyojzjkdujcfjbdjrb/clayhaus-IMGP4744-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/clayhaus-imgp4738-edit-scaled1000.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-imgp4738-edit" height="339" src="http://getfile0.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2012-12-04/cyrpkIaoDfvtrwGJnIHjuiDxBFGmhypvcgkBcEmkbzyjEmhuGybBCbulpdpF/clayhaus-IMGP4738-Edit.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" /></a></div></p>clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-26674297758846222222012-11-18T12:33:00.002-07:002013-04-25T00:04:02.430-06:00Casa Cappellino and the Tuscan Countryside<h3 style="margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; font-weight: normal;">The virtues and pleasures of visiting Tuscany have been well documented since at least the early 19<sup>th</sup>
century. In the Romantic Age, poets and writers, artists and hangers-on
alike wandering the Tuscan countryside, prowled the narrow alleys of
medieval villages, wiled away hours in the wide piazzas of Florence and
Siena. Somewhere between drinking and frolicking, they sang and wrote
and painted about the beauties and </span><i><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;">vicissitudes </span></i><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; font-weight: normal;">of
Tuscany and the Tuscan people. The years have been kind and terrible to
Tuscany. Two millennia of on-again/off-again warfare built cities and
towers and bridges and castles, and then tore them down again, only to
see them rise again in some fashion. Post the last devastating war,
Italy, like much of Europe, experienced yet another assault:
modernization. And, like everywhere, this has been a mixed blessing.
Many of the smaller charms of Florence are subsumed under the crush of
traffic, human and mechanized. Graffiti and fast food chains cheapen 500
year old <i>strade</i> and during the high season the lyrical beauty of Italian is lost amongst the babble of tourists. But, it <i>IS</i>
still Tuscany: a place of wonderful food and wine, charming and
unspoiled villages, friendly people, and unmatched historical, cultural
and artistic treasures. It is a diverse land: beaches rising to the
bright green Chianti hills and rising further still to the darker
Apennine mountains, fount of both the Arno and Tiber Rivers. So, it is a
place one must eventually go to. For us, it is a place of return.</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; font-weight: normal;">Eleven
plus years ago in a small café in Montalcino (tucked away in southern
Tuscany) we watched the events of September 11, 2001 unfold on a small
Italian TV. Though we completed our two week trip through Tuscany and
Umbria, it and us had been changed, as indeed the world was. In the
ensuring decade we continued our travels including Italian trips to Rome
and Venice, the Lake regions and the Dolomites, Umbria, le Marche and
far-south Sicily. In the back of my mind was always a return to Tuscany.
We wanted to ‘do’ Florence at least semi-properly by staying in the
city. We love Siena and a return there seemed a must. I wanted both to
better photograph what I had seen before – San Gimignano, Monteriggione,
Montepulciano – and see and shoot new Tuscan delights: Pisa, Lucca and
Volterra. Perhaps we would even have a cup of espresso or a glass of
Brunello in that little café in Montalcino, where we had spent several
hours, or perhaps a lifetime. </span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; font-weight: normal;">Our
plans changed when fortune and Facebook intersected. We became
re-connected with a friend from 20 years ago with whom we had long lost
touch. Our friend Dennis had purchased a Tuscan villa and retired to it.
After looking at villas in the Volterra area, I turned to Dennis’ <a href="http://www.casacappellino.com/">Casa Cappellino</a>
(‘Little Hat House’ in Italian). What a beautiful piece of property
(all 6 acres of it) with a small working vineyard, a natural spring
fountain, ducks, chickens and rabbits bounding about, a reticent cat
named Min and a friendly and loving sheepdog named Max. Of course, the
real clincher for us was the beautifully restored 2-bedroom farmhouse
that we would be staying in.</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; font-weight: normal;">This would be a different trip than what I had originally envisioned. <a href="http://www.casacappellino.com/">Casa Cappellino</a>
is nestled above in the little wooded hillside hamlet of Lama, about as
far east of Florence as Pisa is west. With the borders of
Emilia-Romagna, Le Marche and Umbria close by, the appealing
destinations of Ravenna, Urbino and Perugia are about as accessible as
Florence and Siena. Much closer to ‘home’ and seen from our bedroom
window is the small hilltop birthplace of Michelangelo, Caprese
Michelangelo. In the valley below Lama flows the Tiber, beginning its
journey to distant Rome. The river passes by or through a number of
historically and artistically-important towns such as Sansepolcro and
Anghiari. Behind the villa the hills rise steeply through a mix of
chestnut, maples, ash and oak woods to reach heights where spruce and
other firs reign. High on the ridgeline sits the medieval Franciscan
monastery of La Verna, where St. Francis was reported to have received
his Stigmata. Hiking trails abound in this area and offer incredible
views both eastward into the Lama Plain and westward into the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Casentino">Casentino Valley</a>, which is studded with hilltop castles and where the Arno River flows.</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; font-weight: normal;">Further
south, but no more than 45-60 minutes away is the ancient city of
Arezzo. Originally founded by the Etruscans, then conquered by the
Romans, the core of the city has many wonderful buildings and a
beautifully laid-out central piazza. Close by the border with Umbria is
the hilltop sprawl of a town Cortona, made famous (and subsequently more
touristy) by Frances Mayes book (and follow-on film) <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Under_the_Tuscan_Sun_%28film%29">Under The Tuscan Sun</a>. </span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; font-weight: normal;">There
is so much to see in this ‘little’ nook of Tuscany that out the
proverbial window went our plans to re-visit much of what we had seen
before or travel far to the west. And though we were going decidedly
off-season – early November – the added bonus of touring this region is
that it is definitely not on the typically well-beaten tourist trail.
Hallelujah for that! </span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; font-weight: normal;">The directions provided were superb – I don’t use GPS’ preferring to read maps – and though it was dark by the time we reached <a href="http://www.casacappellino.com/">Casa Cappellino</a>,
Dennis and his girlfriend Kumiko were on hand to greet us with a bottle
of vino from their first wine harvest. The following week was a time of
getting re-acquainted, driving to and wandering through old villages
and an older still countryside, exploring castles and monastic sites,
gazing at unparalleled art and architecture, drinking tasty and
inexpensive Tuscan wines, and eating at exceeding good restaurants (in
little old Lama, <i>Il Refugio</i> has been Michelin rated for years…do
not miss the traditional Tuscan fare!). Markets are relatively close by
so we also cooked several meals. </span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; font-weight: normal;">Subsequent
posts will detail our explorations through this region of Tuscany (as
well as our two days in Florence) but on our flight stateside I was
already thinking of another return to Tuscany and our new ‘home’ of <a href="http://www.casacappellino.com/">Casa Cappellino</a>.</span></h3>
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<a href="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/lJt8o0HilFtfmfOYHwbAN5cEqGKd15jfTAfaEzH10gSzHBZccxkWTSPF5Kx6/clayhaus-IMGP3979_80_81-Edit.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-imgp3979_80_81-edit" height="331" src="http://getfile5.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/fuusEbKiH5sePCpaRre2Ip5pbYcAgQ58NAhQygnBdPqdgiOZ8OWBamPp1Ihh/clayhaus-IMGP3979_80_81-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/clayhaus-img_0422.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-img_0422" height="281" src="http://getfile0.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/MDGXFeoeO3uHdTGjCy6cIOE3Hax8izSdSyr2DtGMtpOgfMIS3nsHPzc4ZUvW/clayhaus-IMG_0422.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/clayhaus-p1000192.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-p1000192" height="333" src="http://getfile5.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/ELMLPA82y35zQkB2PvGIjCzfdS8fhWQnFfFkKAkIIrxHbjiWmAu3d6gU00ft/clayhaus-P1000192.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/clayhaus-p1000200.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-p1000200" height="333" src="http://getfile0.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/4ccPcoFiiuPK7dweX8ZZ1mmch38cUge4gOD73MuuEg6DvYqbxG0dxIKn05Kx/clayhaus-P1000200.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/clayhaus-p1000190-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-p1000190-edit" height="333" src="http://getfile5.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/qOw3FzgyozjPqhGt3l0yNBQsgUzUjYo34sFAHhafeAY49J2odjmFr6i78G6R/clayhaus-P1000190-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/clayhaus-p1000195-195.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-p1000195-195" height="226" src="http://getfile1.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/XcmwFGoEYqTqMJo9gTCWB4BPDVOaQpP8cg5hyzFd8rKu5mby4UW98B2Zpqus/clayhaus-p1000195-195.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/clayhaus-p1000144.jpg"><img alt="Clayhaus-p1000144" height="333" src="http://getfile6.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/7lhxQeoIqSOMuaQbtqmoYrnAmLZsl3n5ijLQqQ3tIhq6YEA5Yd8alAXB1KGB/clayhaus-P1000144.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-46953063440396704942012-08-28T17:32:00.000-06:002013-04-23T23:49:18.833-06:00My Father, Architect<div class="WordSection1"><p>In some alternative universe (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multiverse">postulated by cosmology</a>…really) my father was an architect. Automobiles (mid-century sports cars and early-century touring cars) and jazz music (especially swing) were his hobbyist passions. Architecture and writing were his vocational passions.</p><p> </p><p>Early on in his schooling he made a decision to forego his first love – architecture – for journalism. Years later he expressed regret for that. In some ways he compensated by becoming a PR guy for the building industry, working with architects, and even the great architectural photographer, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Julius_Shulman">Julius Shulman</a>. Throughout his life he created wonderful living spaces that echoed both his personality and the times. Sunken living rooms, built-in entertainment centers, white shag and aluminum furniture, wall cutouts and mod color schemes eventually were replaced by more modest and less hip interiors. Though, he never really stopped designing.</p><p> </p><p>In that parallel dimension, what kind of architect would dad be? Not a dreamer like <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frank_Gehry">Frank Gehry</a>. His work sings of the impossible made real, the alien brought to Earth. Dad’s imagination was much too grounded, his thought processes too structured to create such monuments. Neither was he a futurist like <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santiago_Calatrava">Santiago Calatrava</a>, whose Milwaukee Museum of Art structure we visited together in 2003. He thought the building was fascinating but the focus of Calatrava’s work on structural engineering would not have appealed to him. The execution of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Le_Corbusier">Le Corbusier’s</a> vision might have appealed to him (we never had a chance to discuss it) but I doubt the didactic purity of the Modernist school would have. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Postmodernism">Post-Modernism</a> would have likely left him confused, as it has many of us.</p><p> </p><p>In the end my father was less about abstracts and trends, monuments and movements, and more about building an abode that people feel comfortable to look at and are comfortable to live in. He was a humanist at heart and reason. I can see him in that alternate reality building a house for people, not machines. Organic, constructed with the land, not on top of it. Unique and special, yes, but not a monument. Quiet with little flash and no hubris. Something along the lines of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gamble_House_(Pasadena,_California)">Gamble House</a> built by Greene and Greene or perhaps a more modest, less assuming <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frank_Lloyd_Wright">Frank Lloyd Wright</a> he might have been.</p><p> </p><p>I’ve come late in life to my love for photographing the built environment. Too late for dad and I to discuss. The last year or so of his life I brought a few books and films on architects and architectural photography to show him. He appreciated them and I understood then that we had more in common than I had previously thought. I wish we had time to explore more cityscapes. We both would have enjoyed that. I think often of him when I am shooting buildings. “Dad would have loved this…he would have hated this…dad would have been awestruck by this…he would have been perplexed by this…” And so, the internal dialog goes and see-saws, one-sided as it is.</p><p> </p><p>But in that alternative universe, my dad is an architect, we are walking those streets, and the conversation flows as it should, back and forth.</p></div><p><div class='p_embed p_image_embed'><a href="http://getfile2.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/eE26GO1xgOHL8KIy0bxoCUw6M8VCcHhJFatkUGKED1iYl1OoZHj3CugEAsOi/CLAY2322-vF.jpg"><img alt="Clay2322-vf" height="752" src="http://getfile3.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/TAUhrupsIVtWgEH883QSd1e0zsTRZ2YddCcxprwKy6Mu1HEiPHF2F5y2tDWR/CLAY2322-vF.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/imgp3156-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp3156-edit" height="749" src="http://getfile8.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/9eEGCFeuZkFHVLm7Nc78MyLaCIWw2MXHL32pI0x2ltxtVgOxldlpONq5sXq6/IMGP3156-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/imgp4441-edit-edit-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp4441-edit-edit-edit" height="685" src="http://getfile3.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/zxxAkfKwHwDU5rTYQQ0OmSGJjQIMKV58sMfixYiN7ddiM8sQZT73fokI7xmK/IMGP4441-Edit-Edit-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/j14298-r1-3a.jpg"><img alt="J14298-r1-3a" height="338" src="http://getfile0.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/WK4xRysKsSlVSPTeE5aSogqCRVaCuE4pdA2vCuWuvuXL7HDkDFH6DmJcNenr/J14298-R1-3A.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/j14298-r1-4a.jpg"><img alt="J14298-r1-4a" height="338" src="http://getfile7.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/zAwjcKLG4CdN7U3wrIXPmFVpoYOAFjouz018o6BSitrD6hnQY9ZcSS0EJtK0/J14298-R1-4A.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/imgp4117_20-pano.jpg"><img alt="Imgp4117_20-pano" height="616" src="http://getfile3.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/gcSAK8IJXKusbh6OpzHMQbNC5UfuTPMQdHy07qtZ5f7Hcz3Ui6dlsnoxuyut/IMGP4117_20-pano.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/clay5205_6_7-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay5205_6_7-edit" height="758" src="http://getfile8.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/28C3ByDxcgEWiX5noRUFEKa2q4RQQ0qT4RUcz2eH9r8rakrROxVq5nxcjySc/CLAY5205_6_7-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/clay6910-11-12_edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay6910-11-12_edit" height="756" src="http://getfile3.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/YNIjVEe4PAeMlaGQ26LSN9nMjizS1G8JlBPIwq3Xl2IuT0N8vqk3eQT0zQ19/CLAY6910-11-12_Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/imgp1229_30_31-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp1229_30_31-edit" height="625" src="http://getfile9.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/RuF0mIYiRnKliVQF3pa4HnOKMlHRklFCfkb24XEWAVAmgnmVrpA37LqlKojB/IMGP1229_30_31-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/imgp2789-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp2789-edit" height="334" src="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/bC7Z9uZdJQKMgT0wNdKKgzskhZY8tM433bhqxSrWR3mhapLg7bkJknpKubdN/IMGP2789-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/imgp0580-84-86-pano.jpg"><img alt="Imgp0580-84-86-pano" height="163" src="http://getfile0.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/bLkESh5wOcl722LW63p8X1gKYtWPymJic1kMzZU0gx430dAg9j8IGVaUbJDh/IMGP0580-84-86-pano.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://getfile5.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhau<br/>s/DtsPuhevYJP71HwQoW1Xjr3ayXLeCMuVBKXtKZJl83Ipl5FN8YnVNE6XFL9d/IMGP0640_1_2-Edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp0640_1_2-edit" height="748" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/imgp0640_1_2-edit-scaled-500.jpg?w=200" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/imgp0570_1_2.jpg"><img alt="Imgp0570_1_2" height="335" src="http://getfile1.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/qi12GxYNrEh5Tgg6ZsiMhMFvLlKpACV6yRtbJV9HwltXwKuM3iTUxzfQnB7N/IMGP0570_1_2.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a></div></p>clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-79237335335586106062012-08-20T22:56:00.002-06:002013-04-23T23:49:20.494-06:0030 Minutes of Serendipity<div class="WordSection1"><p>Serendipity for photographers doesn’t often come in chunks more than a few moments long. That unplanned gorgeous sunset, super clouds at sunrise, a break in the city crowds, special light coming through a window, the swooping eagle, a child’s smile, all may only last the amount of time permitted a few exposures. Other times serendipity says “Hi, I’m here!” in such an obvious fashion that we overlook it, take it for granted, or miss the uniqueness altogether. </p><p></p><p>The ferry ride from Staten Island to Manhattan is around 30 minutes. Locals making the commute usually show little interest beyond finding a quiet place to catch a short nap, listen to some music, read a paper, catch up on work, or all of the above. Upon boarding, tourists make a beeline for the port side so that they may snap fuzzy pictures of a distant Lady Liberty. As a photographer, the best place to take in the approach to Manhattan is of course the bow. Get there early and stake your 2 square feet of deck.</p><p></p><p>I’ve made the trip a number of times over the past 25+ years but this last time was different. The air seemed sharp and clear with little cotton balls of clouds dotting the sky. The water was smooth and little wind could be felt. I had just purchased a few Pentax Limited lenses and was anxious to explore ‘The City’ with these primes. Generally I prefer shooting buildings and cityscapes with infrared cameras and in this case my two converted Pentax bodies were mounted with the 21mm Limited and the 77mm Limited. </p><p></p><p>Once we left the Staten Island ferry building it took me a few minutes to realize that serendipity was calling to me. The cloud speckled sky framing the distant, angular skyline was begging for a wide-angle, black-and-white-via-infrared expression. The journey across the sound was so smooth I could even take hand-held multiple exposures in order to extend my dynamic range via blending. This in turn gave me the idea to try multiple shot hand-held panoramas with the longer 77mm. As we neared the Manhattan side, I finished the ride with the wider view provided by the 21mm lens.</p><p></p><p>It wasn’t until I was home again and processing the images that I truly realized the serendipitous nature of that short, 30 minute boat ride. The images seemed to leap off of the screen with a topographically clarity. The two panoramas in particular – one comprised of 5 exposures taken of a far distant Jersey City, Manhattan and Brooklyn and the other made up of 4 tighter frames of just The City and Brooklyn – were exceptionally vivid. </p><p></p><p>Of course serendipity only has so much to do with a good and successful image. Luck may have put us on that boat on that day and that time, but the rest was up to me.</p><p></p><p></p></div><p><div class='p_embed p_image_embed'><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/imgp5066_70-pano.jpg"><img alt="Imgp5066_70-pano" height="126" src="http://getfile9.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/r2CS5I5bPoOJWG0VOOSJomFR6vc9s0wiYodteENHz9QahBzZIV6ilCmyPYvZ/IMGP5066_70-pano.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/imgp3773_4-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp3773_4-edit" height="326" src="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/TAYIsTY4uvfLPDyFMuQT39R0Ma42jPmMBTzv9KDNM5cvxApGtEQlBvQMLu7H/IMGP3773_4-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/imgp5075_78-pano.jpg"><img alt="Imgp5075_78-pano" height="151" src="http://getfile9.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/E7lAIVfR7fvRMHagYxZnmY2cRxAVEAGrH5Y5j1bwDirjMJEf6okgEZTZyaVI/IMGP5075_78-pano.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/imgp3791_2_3-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp3791_2_3-edit" height="701" src="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/DvzU0fyAMPsY3BzC3R2udvi6Pl8NQTcSuyhiTDJ2FirGF0Qm2tkxRKLxm9ku/IMGP3791_2_3-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/imgp3800-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp3800-edit" height="335" src="http://getfile9.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/ovzDdAjobbyj8NMhjqRXD7jMTxhyMAaYWT49KAwppcnxk4HFzo7dHFHBzn8L/IMGP3800-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/imgp3803_4-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp3803_4-edit" height="746" src="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/UpFQoqMNQoM6gc6vh6yxplg4al1Gwn5ngnvDS8Gn18zTc2X5UQ6TCoQYJMJy/IMGP3803_4-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a></div></p>clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-16305644731571213162012-08-10T06:14:00.000-06:002013-04-23T23:49:18.811-06:00Peace and Quiet and Moonlight at Little Sahara<div class="WordSection1"><p><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri, sans-serif;">My friend and shooting partner Jim swore that there would be unsullied dunes at Little Sahara Recreation Area. I was skeptical. After all, the area is to ATVers and dirt bikers what the John Muir Trail is to hikers. Only noisier, dustier and with a lot of cheap beer flowing. We drove through encampments of ORVers festooned with pennants, surrounded by giant campers like some motorized version of covered wagons or mechanized medieval villages. With kids and kid-like adults ripping around on all manner of quads, I felt like I was visiting the set of a Mad Max remake. As I said, I was skeptical. We were there to shoot the so-called ‘supermoon’ and any possibility of finding peace and quiet, much less un-tracked and un-trashed dunes, seemed as remote as the moon itself.<p />After driving through several districts and finding nothing but what I expected — the chaotic spider-webbing of trails created by unrestrained ATVism — Jim said that he knew of some dunes, untouched. True to his word, they were. Why, I am not sure. I would like to think that there was an unconscious decision on the part of the wheeled visitors to leave one area undefiled. More likely, it was too far from the main camping areas. Regardless, for us, despite the angry and ever-present buzz of ATVs in the the distance, it was a bit of sandy heaven. <p />We were there a couple hours before sunset<span style="color:#1F497D;">,</span> and moonrise<span style="color:#1F497D;">,</span> so going our separate ways, we wandered the dunes. The ripples and patterns and side-lit forms created wonderful compositional elements. And though there may be some repetition, I never get tired of working these subjects. The wind began to pick up and a constant dance of sand coursed along the top of the ripples and off of the leeward sides of the steep dunes. Fortunately the wind was low and as long as I did not change any lenses, my cameras would be unaffected by the blowing particles. These shots, especially the ones captured in infrared, I am quite happy with.<p />As the shadows grew, I began scouting a location for shooting the moon as it rose. I had two tripods and two conventional light (ie, non-infrared) camera bodies, one mounted with a super wide and the other with a telephoto lens. I found a nice dune trough out of the wind and set up and waited. And waited. And some more. What I had not counted on was the moon rising beyond the distant mountains. The sun was well set and there was little ambient light left by the time the huge orb of a moon peaked over the mountains. I shot away but it was clear that the extreme differences in lighting between a very bright moon and a very dark foreground were wreaking havoc on my attempts. In post-processing I was able to “manufacture” one image by compositing a properly exposed moon into a more or less properly exposed foreground. Not ideal.<p />Of more interest, was the long-exposure shooting we did by moonlight. The sand was still blowing and the super bright ‘supermoon’ cast an ethereal light so that exposures of 100 seconds or so created surreal, seemingly submerged, sandscapes. We came for the moon and in the end she made a gift of her light.<p />As we departed late that evening, the hornet’s buzz of a few diehard midnight riders, gave way to the pleasing sigh of wind-born, moonlit sand.</span></p><p class="avgcert"></p></div><p><div class='p_embed p_image_embed'><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/clay1740_1_2-edit-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay1740_1_2-edit-edit" height="756" src="http://getfile7.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/9wZGyclpMph9ER8a23xHG27p0vU9WJPEDxVL7q9f9waTgegzCfp8AmecjZw4/CLAY1740_1_2-Edit-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/imgp3363_4_5-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp3363_4_5-edit" height="748" src="http://getfile2.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/1ddlPdLJGYhG8lFV7FVWNrganSKQSfmzpv6TqE0fraxosRmDjurWBviujSKr/IMGP3363_4_5-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/imgp3369_70_71-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp3369_70_71-edit" height="748" src="http://getfile8.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/ViEWAC44mC4Z1Hn0pjkoziTOVCkpKBCvfr0HUV2uRJqcnnFZz0whoRN7k1hC/IMGP3369_70_71-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/imgp3387_8_9-edit-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp3387_8_9-edit-edit" height="335" src="http://getfile3.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/l46FogBbgsMqKba2T1Y4NgQVFAuknj8ppww1Rq4NRt1C18STfseR3hcdd06y/IMGP3387_8_9-Edit-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/imgp3399_400_401-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp3399_400_401-edit" height="725" src="http://getfile8.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/R2KJBELgvmnDijKJ6D2oy4vQTRZKeNrHMlm4oVOORH3yj1ykUu1zaaDfL5VX/IMGP3399_400_401-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/imgp3414_5_6-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp3414_5_6-edit" height="746" src="http://getfile3.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/k3pZotKQv3kH89c0skgxvMn4x4YZ0Mpr8H0plKOHmw9X27zPBnInOuboPfag/IMGP3414_5_6-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/clay5781-edit-edit-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay5781-edit-edit-edit" height="333" src="http://getfile8.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/T0cuy7BklHn73YCo0mDVWu4Kx5OQQd7fgbj0TBM4UPWH8VDBGYRjWm9FCSXh/CLAY5781-Edit-Edit-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/clay1870-edit-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay1870-edit-edit" height="331" src="http://getfile3.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/nZ05CHOuhgTlmUyqpFTRBGYl2Qf1pZPBEVnciTgWziuUo8g6ZJzanSUQqKUp/CLAY1870-Edit-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/clay1882-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay1882-edit" height="331" src="http://getfile8.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/mS4sQl1TsAx7BYiQmxguMSSJFhgf4dJFIWYxA2Qdyw5mTqkf7Ogq6riQQdqP/CLAY1882-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/clay1883-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay1883-edit" height="331" src="http://getfile3.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/pUG9u6WkrMULg8yDAF0gZW1UErI5DmtuNiO4HdjKbAID5eWej6Z1WXDLmWs2/CLAY1883-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a></div></p>clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-74794416900585084302012-05-18T18:23:00.002-06:002013-04-23T23:49:20.490-06:00An Architect's Work is a Photographer's PleasureIt's no wonder Frank Gehry's architecture is photographed as often as it is: it's as if he designed, specified materials, and built with photographers in mind. Planes of curving glass or metal, ascetically clean and unadorned, reflect the world and sky that surround his buildings. Whether glowing or burning, radiating soft hues or blindingly pearlescent grey tones, his work is our pleasure.<p /> Certainly one of the most oft-photographed Gehry creations has to be the Concert Hall in Los Angeles. Like a beached futuristic Ark of alien design, it sits upon a hill, positioned between the older, New Formalism style architecture of the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion and the imposing high rises of Bunker Hill. I have enjoyed shooting there on several occasions with both infrared and visible light cameras. On my latest trip to L.A. we arrived an hour or so before sunset ?? an ideal time ?? and were rewarded with smoky clouds as backdrop. The soft billows and hard-edged planes both caught and threw back the changing light as the sun dropped lower. <p /> As usual, selecting a few representative images from the many is a challenge: a slight change in angle or in time of capture yields a whole new interpretation. Infuriatingly, the management of the Concert Hall permit no tripod usage on the block the building sits upon. (If you want to use 3-legged support, you must cross to the other side of one of the streets.) This is fine for relatively shallow depth of field images, but the building demands a least a few sweeping wide-angle, extreme DOF photographs. Even without a tripod, with a combination of my Pentax camera's built-in shake resistance, timed breathing, and the creative use of the building itself for support, I was able to capture the f/22, near-to-infinity drama shots I was looking for. <p /> <p><div class='p_embed p_image_embed'><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/clay6400_1_2-dh-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay6400_1_2-dh-edit" height="332" src="http://getfile0.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/IEBWivSPZnSGRWzqDi4t1UrNGkrYgJIHzMPvZRM1HdQJswlf28BUqUcmB2lX/CLAY6400_1_2-dh-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/clay6403_4_5-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay6403_4_5-edit" height="331" src="http://getfile5.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/B9XnzMLiQUfYrciAQOj2wl82xod89YWCwfsPN8WXX1OHyvTvCYWiLHqWJBHm/CLAY6403_4_5-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/clay6409_hdr-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay6409_hdr-edit" height="331" src="http://getfile0.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/TxGcjzvauxqOCe1yqRt9hIZ1tHp3eexufAowiFtjJ6jtsECIwN1T8mJiqxZ0/CLAY6409_HDR-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><img alt="Clay6424_hdr-edit" height="600" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/clay6424_hdr-edit.jpg?w=198" width="397" /><img alt="Clay6430_1_2-edit" height="600" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/clay6430_1_2-edit.jpg?w=199" width="398" /><img alt="Clay6439_40_41-edit" height="600" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/clay6439_40_41-edit.jpg?w=214" width="429" /><img alt="Clay6442_3_4-edit" height="600" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/clay6442_3_4-edit.jpg?w=198" width="397" /><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/clay6445_6_7-edit-edit-2.jpg"><img alt="Clay6445_6_7-edit-edit-2" height="330" src="http://getfile2.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/1duYsIKUtdacHoipeDoCHmViownrmGMDg31AsZCeNf9ud9APYDoACdzpLLq7/CLAY6445_6_7-Edit-Edit-2.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/clay6448_49_50-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay6448_49_50-edit" height="331" src="http://getfile7.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/bGAbpARZQdOobUVODZQDXrMasXyJnYC0tR7C8irOZDTl23hHES8KhoXmZ0zj/CLAY6448_49_50-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><img alt="Clay6461_2-edit" height="600" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/clay6461_2-edit.jpg?w=198" width="397" /></div></p>clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-84142329982961830182012-05-03T09:46:00.002-06:002013-04-23T23:49:20.498-06:00Kelso Dunes: A Drive By<div class="WordSection1"><p><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri, sans-serif;">If anyone knows about the <span style="color:#1F497D;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kelso_Dunes">Kelso Dunes</a></span> — and I’ll wager not many do — then they know that one just doesn’t happen to “drive-by” these 650 foot tall sand dunes. Instead, you must plan to go there, even if for only a half hour, as I did this week. <p />The plan was to drive home (Salt Lake City) from my step-mother’s house in Southern California via the <span style="color:#1F497D;"><a href="http://www.nps.gov/moja/index.htm">Mojave National Preserve</a></span> rather than the shorter but tedious I-10 to I-15 interstate route. Why? Because I wanted to see — and briefly photograph — the Kelso Dunes again. First, and last, there some 29 years ago, I had memories of climbing to the top of dunes for a sunset with my then girlfriend. We had camped in the nearby Providence Mountains and the austere, dry quiet of the Mojave had awed both of us. This was before the Preserve was established and the State of California created the Providence Mountains State Recreation Area (which, along with another 60+ state parks has been embarrassingly closed due to ‘deficit-reduction’ since 2008) and so toodling around in the desert carried more risk then then it does now. The roads were much rougher and pavement was much sparser.<p />Now, heading north into the heart of the Mojave Desert on the Kelbaker Road in my father’s VW Passat and listening to his old Doobie Brothers and Blood, Sweat & Tears cassettes (thinking of you dad), the experience and goal were of a different nature. Rather than camp and hike, I planned to drive and shoot. Climbing past the aptly named Granite Mountains and descending the long straight grade after the pass, there lay the long line of amber-ish colored dunes to the west and the short 3 mile long graded dirt road to the trailhead. <p />Of course many a visitor to National Parks execute true drive-bys. You’ve seen them, yes? They drive-up, stop the vehicle, perhaps turn-off the engine (but, probably not), and hold their point-and-shoot or smart phone at arm’s length, snap the digital shutter, climb back in the vehicle and disappear, heading to the next scenic spot where they are supposed to take a picture. I witnessed the ultimate drive-by last year when at the end of Chicken Corners Road in the Greater Canyonlands area — a partially 4WD road that takes 3-4 hours to drive one-way — a woman in the passenger side of a rented open-air jeep, said “awesome, just awesome” as she snapped a couple of frames, whilst the jeep turned around, and headed home again. The jeep didn’t stop and she didn’t get out. Is that not strange behavior of <i>homo urbis</i>?<p />I don’t really do true drive-bys, so grabbing my Pentax K-5 and my infrared modified Pentax K10, I started trudging towards the main dune in the 80 degree heat. No plan really other than to find a spot closer and perhaps nicer to shoot a few frames. After 15-20 minutes I found a few sand ripples and clumps of greenery and though it was late morning and the sun was harsh, I documented my desert side trip on the long<span style="color:#1F497D;"> </span>journey home. The numerous creosote bushes were sporting small yellow flowers but the persistent breeze played havoc with any attempt to photograph them, so I didn’t. The four shots here, though perhaps borderline repetitive, will hopefully give one a feel for the unique nature of these plant-stabilized dunes. Reportedly the oldest dunes (~25,000 years) in North America, and the third highest (after the Great Sand Dunes in Colorado and the Eureka Sand Dunes in Death Valley National Park), the Kelso Dunes really deserve more than a drive-by.<p />Next time.</span><span style="font-size:11pt;"> <span style="color:#1F497D;"></span></span></p></div><p><div class='p_embed p_image_embed'><a href="http://getfile1.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/nNK2BBhMjGdDXV81928SEmew13TnCGWLHiApQGm0ISJEzQJUvE4FUD8hZ3XC/IMGP3354_5_6-Edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp3354_5_6-edit" height="332" src="http://getfile2.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/xaIVf2C0FXpC7qm3TiXyojHFDWVbUlpv1gsQksooFSunf8TisOjZ2TG7cYPO/IMGP3354_5_6-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><img alt="Clay1650_1_2-edit-2" height="700" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/clay1650_1_2-edit-2.jpg?w=198" width="464" /><img alt="Imgp3351_2_3-edit" height="700" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/imgp3351_2_3-edit.jpg?w=200" width="468" /><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/imgp3347_8_9-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp3347_8_9-edit" height="336" src="http://getfile5.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/rRjLeZvA9mWUIwWrao10BVnBDDl78wudtSP7ZVfEPlsD79lHVGbCkIgxt9qv/IMGP3347_8_9-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a></div></p>clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-33710686906133809172012-04-18T22:19:00.002-06:002013-04-23T23:49:18.827-06:00Union Station, at a Glance<span style="font-size:11pt;">I admit that I have a somewhat childish fascination with trains. I never built models of them as a kid, preferring WWII airplanes. And though I did have a train set that my dad mounted on an accurately painted large piece of plywood (lakes and greenery and a bridge!), I don't particularly have any wistful memories of playing with the trains. So I came rather late to my appreciation of things locomotive. <p /> Trains and train stations are part and parcel, and though many of the latter can be quite grim and grubby, others are exceptional design expressions of architects and their times. Whether grand or quaint, many train stations are prime territory for photographers. <p /> One of the things I like about shooting established architecture is that I explore the structure with my cameras and then often I'll explore again via my computer and Wikipedia, or other reference sites.<p /> Case in point: I was in Los Angeles on a photo trip this past February and spent an hour photographing the Union Station. Completed in 1939, it is a blend of three architectural styles (according to Wikipedia): Dutch Colonial Revival, Mission Revival, and Streamline Moderne. Of course I looked these styles up and Mission Revival seems the obvious parent with perhaps a touch of the Moderne.<p /> Regardless of its pedigree, it is a compelling structure with many interesting features. This starts with its distinctive tower and art-deco inspired building entrance. Once in the building you are confronted with a long foyer and to the left the old blocked-off-to-the-public Main Ticketing Concourse. This is now used for scheduled photo sessions like the couple shoot I saw taking place. I would have loved to wander in this spacious room but contented myself with a few wide-angle shots.<p /> The main waiting room is ahead and though it is now occupied by the ball cap crowd, you can almost imagine the fedoras and suits of the '40's and '50's. At the end of the the train access passageway is a large room with a huge crystal-like skylight overhead (really, the word skylight does not do it justice) . This appeared to be a connector to a bus station and despite the fact that bus stations are generally in a different (and lower) league than train stations, this room had fascinating touches and wonderful light. <p /> Too quick, my walking tour was over. The sunset was approaching and Frank Gehry's Concert Hall was just a few blocks away. Its shimmering mirror-like panels beckoned.</span> <p><div class='p_embed p_image_embed'><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/clay-imgp4638-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay-imgp4638-edit" height="334" src="http://getfile8.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/ukzkjmhQf7Q5v7rIvXQJSBQQcsNisBXpc2XaHcyt4KtM6YRAekDuQkGvcqZC/CLAY-IMGP4638-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/clay6359_60_61-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay6359_60_61-edit" height="331" src="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/7gPj1JkAH5Qc85buE8JEhv7GqeccQdCg1nx9lE13vELuuVtLytMw844KQQlb/CLAY6359_60_61-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/clay6371_2_3-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay6371_2_3-edit" height="332" src="http://getfile9.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/77SJUHy7Zpn3jeC4KafZt2jb4hClqU3LQNyYfLR1CgEtPURDNy9r39YyBmpr/CLAY6371_2_3-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/clay6374_tonemapped-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay6374_tonemapped-edit" height="331" src="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/niaGH74CrZ6afAcvu0OXcMN44SMiCy1TyASsuVaW9B3s8Masj7ITb8cphjdc/CLAY6374_tonemapped-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/clay6376_7_8-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay6376_7_8-edit" height="331" src="http://getfile9.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/YWrsSMhlvvjBuvfO1L0Nv2BtjMJ38aDMiBiht0Fg7Zdr21kj9Zg24g5WCCF7/CLAY6376_7_8-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/clay6379_80_81-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay6379_80_81-edit" height="500" src="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/pNKphGtKefHNdnK6geeQZtk11qdJgR1LHblaD8Sia7CWZSH2lbJPbW2TEs1L/CLAY6379_80_81-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a></div></p>clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-19054600542698811822012-04-02T09:04:00.002-06:002013-04-23T23:49:18.815-06:00Return to Eureka Dunes<div class="WordSection1"><p>It was one month shy of a quarter century since I had last been here. Easter week in 1987 we – my wife, our 7-year old daughter, and our 2-year old golden retriever – pulled into the lee of the 700+ foot tall Eureka Sand Dunes in our 1972 International Scout. The only other person there was some bozo riding a 3-wheeler on the lower dunes, fortunately in the distance. There was no campground, certainly no outhouse, and in fact Death Valley was still a Monument and its boundaries did not yet extend to this lonely and remote valley. Against a crystal blue sky we climbed the highest dune and later that night relished a warm evening beneath a canopy of limitless stars.</p><p></p><p>Fast forward 299 months…the Scout is long gone, Whiskey – our first golden retriever – lived a long life but is also no longer with us, our daughter is grown up, my wife was at home, and me and my friend / photography-partner finally arrived after a 10+ hour drive at the primitive Eureka Valley campground on this cold, cloudy March afternoon. Death Valley National Park extended its borders a decade-and-a-half-ago to include this valley, as well as Saline and Panamint Valleys. Other than fourteen or so widely scattered campsites, and the one lone sentinel of an outhouse, it was hard to see any difference in what I remembered from 25 years ago. Oh yes, no bozos are permitted to ride their toys on the dunes…progress.</p><p></p><p>It was chilly but after selecting a site and setting up camp, we ventured into the lower march of dunes to photograph a sandy sunset. Little time remained before the sun dipped below the horizon, and my goal was to hike high on a dune ridge to a) be beyond any traces and tracks of human footprints – always a challenge in the dune environment – and b) be positioned appropriately to capture the waning light on the dunes.</p><p></p><p>It didn’t take me long to clamber high enough to reach a stretch of virgin sand, long with sinuous cascades of ripples. The clouds played havoc with the light – a muted softbox effect punctured by occasional bright bursts of the sun and its light – and ultimately yielded little in the way of dramatic and classic sunset colors. Nonetheless, there were brief windows when things worked and the elements came together to create interesting images: a knife-ridge here lit by golden light on one side, shadowy dusk descending on the other; a thin, struggling bush there acting as an organic counter-point to the mountains of silky silica. I concentrated on those moments and subjects, attempting to distill the essence of cool spring dusk turning into the winter of a cold, starry night; trying to do justice to the power, beauty, and serenity of the desert environment. </p></div><p><div class='p_embed p_image_embed'><img alt="Clay7571_2_3-edit" height="600" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/clay7571_2_3-edit.jpg?w=198" width="397" /><img alt="Clay7583_4_5-edit" height="600" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/clay7583_4_5-edit.jpg?w=198" width="397" /><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/clay7586_7_8-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay7586_7_8-edit" height="332" src="http://getfile9.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/5HLwz5c0ohNz9xA6RIeCKHdV8MluH3MkhUnffMh5r6g70idATCxgGQza6Gk4/CLAY7586_7_8-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/clay7592_3_4-edit-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay7592_3_4-edit-edit" height="332" src="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/uotpM2tuZybNCvHFXHat8yhU6FM4FH2v0ylgh59L8xzxIcEEz8YWwIhJbUBw/CLAY7592_3_4-Edit-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><img alt="Clay7598_599_600-edit" height="600" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/clay7598_599_600-edit.jpg?w=198" width="397" /><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/clay7601_2_3-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay7601_2_3-edit" height="332" src="http://getfile3.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/AaHjwwxVxzYhFAv1kywuZlGJROj6H3cWjZYNfLB9lIeZcteDhsrbZs2Efte1/CLAY7601_2_3-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><img alt="Clay7604_5_6-edit" height="600" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/clay7604_5_6-edit.jpg?w=199" width="398" /><img alt="Clay7610_tonemapped-edit" height="600" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/clay7610_tonemapped-edit.jpg?w=198" width="397" /></div></p>clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-1607379486796543532012-03-05T08:18:00.002-07:002013-04-23T23:49:18.810-06:00Lines, Angles, Patterns, Light and Shadow...at the Getty Center<span style="font-size:11pt;">Working with light is the easy truism of what photographers do: no photons, no image burned on sensor, plate or film. But really it is what the light reveals — and in some cases does not reveal — that provides us the canvas to paint upon. In the natural as well as the built world I am continually searching for the lines, angles and patterns that light and shadow create. A wonderful place to explore this is The Getty Center, above Los Angeles.<p /> On a recent photography assignment in the L.A. area I had the luxury of a day off and I spent it at the Getty. The crowds were minimal and the weather promised an early Spring. The view stretched to the coast unhindered by the usual horizontal brown streaks, and a deep blue sky with voluminous billowy clouds floated overhead. The shadows were strong without the light being overly harsh. It seemed the perfect set of conditions to forego my visible light cameras and walk instead in the world of infrared photography. <p /> Shooting with my infrared-converted Pentax K100 (830nm) and Pentax K10 (780nm) DSLRs at focal lengths ranging from 14mm to 70mm I was able to capture striking compositions. The bright-white clouds contrasted with the deep black sky and both provided the perfect backdrop for the play of light and shadow in the near distance. The Getty Center, designed by architect Richard Meier, features his trademark white architecture, in this case white panels overlaid on curving, even sensuous framework. This is juxtapositioned with arrow-straight beams and walkways. Superimposed on all are multiple impressions of grids: in the walls, the windows, the stairwells, and railings. Occasional walls and foundations of rough-hewn, pale ochre stone act as a marked and organic contrast to the mathematical equation of the main metal and concrete structures.<p /> The fun begins immediately after stepping off of the tram in the Arrival Plaza (you must take a small ‘people-mover’ from the lower parking lot to the Getty complex, per se). Most people quickly shoot their first of many tourist photos here standing in the front of the wide ascending steps leading to the Museum Entrance Hall. This building yields the classic undulating pose featured in brochures, articles, and so many folks’ photographs...including my own. But having shot it from ground level a few years back, I wanted a different view. That’s what led me to climb the steps leading to the upper floor of the oft-ignored restaurant building. This put me at a level to shoot the curves of the main building straight-on, but more importantly gave me lots of lines, curves, patterns, light and shadows to play with as I worked my way around the structure.<p /> From there my wanderings took me to the Research Institute Exhibition Gallery, the gardens (too crowded), the West Pavilion and back to the Museum Hall. When my day at the Getty was finished I had not even ventured into the Main Plaza, much less the North, South and East Pavilion buildings. No worries: something left for my return visit. Exploring the lines, angles, patterns, light and shadow of architecture is not only a joy but can yield rich and compelling images, especially if you take the time to really work it.</span> <p><div class='p_embed p_image_embed'><img alt="Imgp4647-edit" height="600" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/imgp4647-edit.jpg?w=200" width="401" /><img alt="Imgp4654_5_6-edit" height="600" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/imgp4654_5_6-edit.jpg?w=200" width="400" /><img alt="Imgp4666_7-edit" height="600" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/imgp4666_7-edit.jpg?w=216" width="433" /><img alt="Imgp4668-edit-edit" height="600" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/imgp4668-edit-edit.jpg?w=200" width="400" /><img alt="Imgp4669-edit" height="600" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/imgp4669-edit.jpg?w=200" width="401" /><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/imgp4670_1_2-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp4670_1_2-edit" height="332" src="http://getfile3.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/tbH09cZsCluhOOyjk1yzv6tSNLcwHqaIV5Dy4jsh8rpDA6WDF4tVCgUuAtgy/IMGP4670_1_2-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><img alt="Imgp4673_4_5-edit" height="600" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/imgp4673_4_5-edit.jpg?w=199" width="398" /><img alt="Imgp4680-edit" height="600" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/imgp4680-edit.jpg?w=200" width="401" /><img alt="Imgp4689-edit" height="600" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/imgp4689-edit.jpg?w=200" width="401" /><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/imgp1616_7_8-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp1616_7_8-edit" height="334" src="http://getfile0.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/VBgVKsAGeA0KzBkU0sJC5LwZe2cNqNur5encPXfpdaJQCEzhrEqD7u0NmZ3q/IMGP1616_7_8-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><img alt="Imgp1604_5_6-edit" height="600" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/imgp1604_5_6-edit.jpg?w=201" width="402" /><img alt="Imgp1622_3_4-edit" height="600" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/imgp1622_3_4-edit.jpg?w=193" width="386" /><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/imgp1644-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp1644-edit" height="335" src="http://getfile3.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/G2llIoVKuB1gJ8pVyEblNRyQdANGI12HzYbfQ5GKNNyqlGgIVORtvQNjYlR4/IMGP1644-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/imgp1658_59_60-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp1658_59_60-edit" height="330" src="http://getfile8.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/39kZhrvssRnZSE6EWtRvx4ET9QimVbs6nEO216vY8RIE7lpgnU0AMfgA5U6B/IMGP1658_59_60-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/imgp1701_tonemapped-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp1701_tonemapped-edit" height="335" src="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/1Um6GgQrK7jK2JobyoZrCp0T0RTu7uqD3iJGFYCmB0xuq4DS4Vk865ilFJGB/IMGP1701_tonemapped-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><img alt="Imgp1719-edit" height="600" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/imgp1719-edit.jpg?w=201" width="402" /><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/imgp1733_4_5-edit-2-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp1733_4_5-edit-2-edit" height="335" src="http://getfile3.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/OD1yVRO8JUkZeJbJtPEQM6RpwcCwvvDcM6xN0pIEd4p2wtwm6o7CP0gMUZZH/IMGP1733_4_5-Edit-2-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://getfile7.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/mgrPsPhb5nRWSyfoBvGR8oFsaBCE3ec313GfnyzQjGBnJa136vaK4Y1v2AZu/IMGP1731_HDR-Edit.j<br/>pg"><img alt="Imgp1731_hdr-edit" height="335" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/imgp1731_hdr-edit-scaled-500.jpg?w=300" width="500" /></a><img alt="Imgp1727_8_9-edit" height="600" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/imgp1727_8_9-edit.jpg?w=201" width="402" /></div></p>clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-9021721075495479252011-10-26T23:50:00.000-06:002013-04-23T23:49:20.503-06:00Exploring The Gamble House<div class="WordSection1"><p>Coming late to architecture, I had never heard of the <a href="http://www.gamblehouse.org/">Gamble House</a>. But recently I was in the LA area for a quick architectural tour and my daughter suggested we check out this <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Craftsman">American Craftsman Style</a> house of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arts_and_Crafts_Movement">Arts and Crafts Movement</a>. Built in 1908 for David Gamble (of Proctor & Gamble fame) the house is outstanding from many perspectives. The architects – <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greene_and_Greene">Greene & Greene</a> – used an array of over 20 different woods. All of the furniture and finishings, including cabinets, picture frames and even a piano, were created in their millwork shop from original designs. Additionally, all of the lamps and wall sconces were individually designed. Throughout the entire house can be found an interesting interweaving of Japanese design and aesthetics with an American sense of spaciousness and the possible.</p><p></p><p>The only way to view the interior is via an hour long guided tour. It is worth it. The docent that led us was very well-versed in not only the minutiae of the Gamble family and their house, but he also knew much about the architect brothers. He also shared interesting details about life in the early 20<sup>th</sup> century. For instance, there was a fear in the early days of electricity that direct exposure to light bulbs would be harmful. That is why all of the light bulbs are pointing upwards or otherwise shielded from direct view. Those deadly photons!</p><p></p><p>The house is essentially a working museum. The last Gamble lived there until 1966 and then the building and grounds were donated to the city of Pasadena. Through a special arrangement with USC, two senior architecture students live and study there every year. With little change, things are the way they were a 100 years ago.</p><p></p><p>From a photographic perspective, the interior is relatively low-lit, due to the pervasive light-dampening characteristics of all the dark woods. Some long exposures would be wonderful but photography is off-limits inside. When I was there it was mid-day and the light was pretty harsh. Nonetheless, I took a few color and infrared shots of the west-facing exterior. I believe the infrared converted to b/w images work the best. I took multiple exposures and blended them together which allowed for a rich depth of tones in the shadows and well-lit areas. The color images are less interesting to me, but I offer them as a juxtaposition. </p><p></p><p>If you love architecture and are in the LA area, you owe it to yourself to check out the Gamble House. If you have more time, there are several more Greene & Greene homes within walking distance, along the Arroyo Terrace. Discovering an architectural gem in the built environment can be almost as rewarding as exploring the wilderness. Almost. </p><p></p></div><p><div class='p_embed p_image_embed'><a href="http://getfile7.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/GOolkcqfTNSudZd8DnztIjrOboNcrp5ZFak4iiTlbYplU0kKJQEdnZk7aKhw/IMGP0564_5_6.jpg"><img alt="Imgp0564_5_6" height="333" src="http://getfile8.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/qMYEXV40P9ctTH5akz56lBCnOAe1hwaVml2IgrkMO5OoTPhD6tl4O3Ot0w7Q/IMGP0564_5_6.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/imgp0570_1_2.jpg"><img alt="Imgp0570_1_2" height="335" src="http://getfile3.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/B20n2W4Buwa3fJTcNvtqTnCBz7QKQ2Hil366wbYwhVTACxVvXGnRw1kb7mwt/IMGP0570_1_2.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/clay0363_4_5-edit-edit-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay0363_4_5-edit-edit-edit" height="331" src="http://getfile8.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/tehSj33DgDxTSLChpz1oWTdXINRIxHOkKIflEwbHoA0EizqH8XlRKrcQaa0l/CLAY0363_4_5-Edit-Edit-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/clay0369_70_71-edit-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay0369_70_71-edit-edit" height="331" src="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/DLvNfFdMAnOxI0A9mVJI2tYUXYi3gWeN6SMp7tPaNVufJLMKKW3THS7vYzmi/CLAY0369_70_71-Edit-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/clay0375_6_7-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay0375_6_7-edit" height="333" src="http://getfile9.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/eftfjofVEcY5Tma8fqGtRGnXPg7u9xcfwCamlD8nPmDeNAfv4YiVnwahvXqa/CLAY0375_6_7-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/clay0381_2_3-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay0381_2_3-edit" height="758" src="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/oRXshELgMpUDEY9lCKVF2AjIsTTVWksU6QrQb4KZWO6iDgvOoVfTXpofV5Mo/CLAY0381_2_3-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a></div></p>clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-27998344467606874232011-10-18T23:10:00.002-06:002013-04-23T23:49:18.824-06:00Return to Griffith Observatory<div class="WordSection1"><p>Up until last week I had only two images of Griffith Observatory: one featuring James Dean, Sal Mineo, and Natalie Wood from 1955 and my own, a certainly less traumatic than <a href="http://youtu.be/4RN5XERTQLI">Rebel Without a Cause</a> sojourn to see the planetarium stars wheel to the kaleidoscope sounds of <a href="http://www.laserium.com/">Pink Floyd</a>, circa 1973. Instead of knife fights or psychedelic music, it was a pretty tame mid-morning occasion to photograph the observatory and perhaps even the un-smogged skies of Los Angeles.</p><p></p><p>It was a rare clear day in the land of angels and I primarily shot with my newly infrared-converted Pentax K10. I had ordered a non-standard 780nm filter from the gentleman – Clarence Spencer of <a href="http://www.spencerscamera.com/">Spencer’s Cameras</a> – who had previously performed my Pentax DS conversion (to720nm) and my K100 conversion (to 830nm). Both of those are older 6mp cameras and I was looking forward to seeing more images from the 10mp Pentax. I had taken the K10 to the <a href="http://www.suwa.org/">Greater Canyonlands</a> area a few weeks back and was really stunned by one image in particular of the <a href="http://www.clayhausphotography.com/greatercanyonlands/e14fc2833">setting</a> <a href="http://www.clayhausphotography.com/greatercanyonlands/e14fc2833">morning moon</a>. This would be my first occasion to shoot architectural studies with the infrared camera and I was anticipating more stunning images.</p><p></p><p>The sun was bright, the shadows deep, the air (pretty) clear, and the observatory lines clean and sharp….perfect for infrared. There was much more to work there than I anticipated. Fortunately there also were not a lot of people at that time, so with a bit of patience, shooting unimpeded was easy. I particularly likely the stairs and archways that provided wonderfully strong and evocative compositions. Lots of lines to work with and the few thin, ethereal clouds provided the perfect foil to an otherwise featureless sky. </p><p></p><p>It was a good outing with I believe compelling results and I thank my patient family (whom I was visiting) for letting me shoot until I was finished…and, sending only one text, wondering where I was.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p></div><p><div class='p_embed p_image_embed'><a href="http://getfile8.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/UUNQilw7xb41mq4ZlAL08CR9OLgIbLpnAVx1HD4xWE5xO3W3oC1BipcJ9Bcf/IMGP0473-Edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp0473-edit" height="335" src="http://getfile9.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/LhFDWilORhuSs5zjpszP3C6Eh59g4RgmEokUvUwvJcRjg7qIR9z7KlZmSed8/IMGP0473-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/imgp0475.jpg"><img alt="Imgp0475" height="746" src="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/cwARcYZJokkfZF6jGDvzlLlHXuDv5AkXZzmPqquMgwnQQLyhGbaNJkTUapB5/IMGP0475.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/imgp0481-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp0481-edit" height="747" src="http://getfile9.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/tDdAajI7GZjHsq1U1vrwSlXbiRq03TWFrQANckgWj7dWxSCh5HMaBOYLBTsq/IMGP0481-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/imgp0486-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp0486-edit" height="335" src="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/kkFSenV1QVpSEp0HtfanxzrU2OQdcSFR5dMcwRly4VXvLEOkjJvW6NfEDOfk/IMGP0486-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/imgp0491-93_pano.jpg"><img alt="Imgp0491-93_pano" height="542" src="http://getfile9.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/e2uJJ2wwreJVpyvKYaDftBR60fIrs5mFAhDqISUy7IPyUc69KuxcFHBd5peG/IMGP0491-93_pano.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/imgp0498-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp0498-edit" height="335" src="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/6EuaibgnzpbhV2kQDjkqAnhu6lL6wt4Lxh6BzBiGqPaDYFKXBB91mp7i9P2X/IMGP0498-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/imgp0504-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp0504-edit" height="747" src="http://getfile9.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/gNrY9h0m4ODixsOKLRvmj1rmpHPi4b1yYuQ861JYcOV1KpBlcKIYJ2IGYw0q/IMGP0504-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/imgp0510-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp0510-edit" height="747" src="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/gaPr006USFe9PQ77j7FzsrEbvcYyCm5kTEA8O9si8jk3dOJwiQzbCWXwdsBI/IMGP0510-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/imgp0520_1_2_tonemapped-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp0520_1_2_tonemapped-edit" height="336" src="http://getfile9.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/xjpY92p6J7wbNuAbYpY8FsmlKaMzGUU5gDyekJz6tLk1qiu4ITtqjjYmW5HZ/IMGP0520_1_2_tonemapped-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/imgp0526-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp0526-edit" height="335" src="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/nEWjPqTsWb9NkQkuT5lnWtFJdZPUYbRjo3QmiHh9u9iZnQFUvEd8oqx3kcY2/IMGP0526-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/imgp0542-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp0542-edit" height="747" src="http://getfile9.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/CIXDf87d9aMXCY8Q6s0xhsvUp0ttTylxDsOCzQsRwkGlvSRywCIIXmeTegaC/IMGP0542-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/imgp0545-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp0545-edit" height="747" src="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/UEC5HkrK5sFI27nGmx7G2ZJKrLb5WTkFySOdWM8ZDejN2WNfDM7ROJ7HB9fE/IMGP0545-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/imgp0554_5_6_tonemapped-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp0554_5_6_tonemapped-edit" height="745" src="http://getfile9.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/nxdifca0uCxvxwpVETrf17KDQRWpqI0xIEB45tCXSWWyJHAiS8k1gXlbQIyS/IMGP0554_5_6_tonemapped-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a></div></p>clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-18797790623626739252011-09-19T07:54:00.000-06:002013-04-23T23:49:18.814-06:00There is more to Racetrack Valley than just Moving Rocks<div class="WordSection1"><p>Racetrack Valley is justifiably famous for its moving rocks. The rocks are mainly scattered about the southern end of the playa and leave long gouges in the now-hard and caked mud. Some of these paths seem impossible with odd angles and strangely placed rocks in the middle of tracks. Theories abound from the silly (aliens and pranksters) to the scientific. Most of the credible theories revolve around a combination of wet, slick mud and high winds that push the rocks to and fro, in straight and sometimes varying directions. Some of the rocks are large and must weigh upwards of 50 pounds so the conditions must be just so. Of course, there is no record of anyone ever observing this behavior, hence the bit of mystery. </p><p>While we were there in April a Czech professor – Gunther Kletetschka – and his assistant were conducting research on the moving rocks. Their research adds a new set of wrinkles to the wind and water theories. I won’t reiterate the details as a fellow photographer I met out there has started a thread and done a very good job encapsulating the scientist’s thoughts. You can read about it <a href="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1005570">here</a> as well as see the photographer’s (Michael Kunitani) wonderful images.</p><p>I spent one morning and one evening working the moving rocks. There are a couple of obvious ways to approach the rocks from a photographic perspective: either low and centered on the rock or high with an ultra wide-angle capturing the rock and its trail. The previously referred to photographer has some very good examples of the low-approach, whilst most of my images are of the high-approach. Of course, in retrospect I wish I had at least shot a few as Michael did, but I guess I’ll work that approach when I return to the valley.</p><p>Unless you have cloud cover, shooting during the middle of the day will likely not produce a lot of successful images: the light is generally too harsh. Even if you like strong contrast and sharp shadows, stick to the extremes of the day where you can shoot very pronounced, elongated shadows. So, what to do during that late morning to mid-afternoon stretch? Well, I suppose you could sit in camp and drink beer, but frankly I didn’t drive 13 hours to sit in camp.</p><p>Like most of Death Valley, Racetrack Valley has seen its share of intrepid miners in the last century and a quarter. The mine sites vary from extensive and obvious to minuscule and difficult to find. In fact, at the south end of the valley there was even an optimistically named Ubehebe City supplied by weekly stagecoach service (hard to imagine how ‘pleasant’ that ride must have been!), but no trace of it exists today. The easiest to see and visit mine site is just a ?? mile or so from the campsites. The Lippincott mine features numerous mine tunnels and shafts as well as remnants of an old mill and a shot-up water tanker. Spelunkers have ventured into the tunnel complex, but for us a short 100 yards or so until it became pitch black was enough (bring a light!). A lead and silver mine Lippincott was in production until the early 1950’s. There is much to see here and a better part of an afternoon can be occupied poking around. You will also enjoy expansive views of not only Racetrack Valley but also of the much larger Saline Valley to the west.</p><p>From Racetrack Valley one could drop into Saline Valley via the infamous Lippincott Road. When I ventured down it years ago it was an incredibly nerve-wracking experience with huge boulders and ruts threatening to propel our vehicle into the chasm below. It appears much tamer now as it seems they periodically grade it. From where the road beings its rapid descent you can venture up the hillside due north for a good view of Saline Valley. Continuing on an old track the view opens up even more, exposing the western flank of the Last Chance Range and showing just how long Saline Valley is (~80 miles).?? </p><p>Returning to exploring Racetrack Valley, a less obvious mine is the Sally Ann Mine. Located in the steep mountainside southeast of the playa, I stumbled around there for the better part of an hour but never could find a trail much less the actually diggings. I did find however the foundation of a campsite with shards of colored glass and bits of crockery strewn about. I also found the old camp dump where the never-very-environmentally-conscious miners tossed their tin cans.</p><p>The most rewarding exploration in the valley was my sunset race up the Copper Queen Mine/Ubehebe Peak trail. It was our last evening before heading home the next day and I wanted something different. Fortunately, earlier in the trip, I had purchased Michel Digonnet’s informative and essential guidebook, “Hiking Death Valley.” (Since my return I have also acquired his companion book, “Hiking Western Death Valley National Park: Panamint, Saline, and Eureka Valleys. I cannot recommend too highly either of these books. The amount of detail Michel provides is nothing short of comprehensively staggering.) Though the trail is obvious – it begins at the Grandstand turnout – there is no sign and one could be forgiven for thinking it impossible to climb the seemingly sheer eastern escarpment below the towering Ubehebe Peak. But lo, if one squints upward north of the peak towards a quasi-obvious saddle you can see a series of frightening switchbacks. The book claims that this ascent is “one of the most spectacular hikes in this desert” and though my experience in this region is dwarfed by Mr. Digonnet’s, I would merely add that it was awe-inspiring. </p><p>The race was to beat the setting sun so that I could shoot the Last Chance Range’s advancing shadow across Racetrack Valley. It was late afternoon and the 2 mile and 1200’ elevation gain seemed daunting. For some reason I was pumped and though I stopped a couple of times and moved a bit slowly through the last few very steeply pitched switchbacks (there are a total of 36 of them!) I crested at the saddle in 45 minutes. The view below was stupendous. And, indeed, I was able to photograph the shadow to my heart’s content. To the west, Saline Valley was in shadow from the even taller Inyo Mountains. If the sunset had not been a concern I could have continued to climb south to the summit of Ubehebe Peak (another mile away and 800’ higher) or descended a 1000 plus feet to the Copper Queen Mines. But those will have to wait until another visit with more time.</p><p>Our final venture was to photograph the Grandstand in the day’s fading light, so I couldn’t tarry on the high divide and instead raced down the twelve hundred feet back to the playa. We brought lights to shine on the aptly named Grandstand (located in the middle of the north end of the dried lakebed) but for me the after-dark experiment of shooting infrared yielded startling and alien-esque images. </p><p>It had been 27 years since I last explored the vast desiccated world of Death Valley, but it was pretty clear that I would not wait another quarter century to return: Spring of 2012 can’t come too soon! </p><p></p></div><p><div class='p_embed p_image_embed'><a href="http://getfile0.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/nz7JEANfCKouQuQgor7GEQ66c5wYyvw6StuCMNfMmQWLQAOms4bh2rGRnWRl/CLAY2151_2_3-Edit-bw.jpg"><img alt="Clay2151_2_3-edit-bw" height="756" src="http://getfile1.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/l522sjOz7UPWhHJEhJo4dhieHMTj9of0se4NKqt4Tbb3BYx4Kd7CqaGgCSP6/CLAY2151_2_3-Edit-bw.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/clay2196_7_8-edit-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay2196_7_8-edit-edit" height="750" src="http://getfile6.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/lo2LettUsGOuoveKSDGL1OMIu7mIsSIu2aJcYrwWcVbTo1tXsp8BGiTw5LzG/CLAY2196_7_8-Edit-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://getfile0.poster<br/>ous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/aE0UL4MD8D24XkeqXMUn5sce49Ibny9OCKuyjWUkz3wqFII9YpCKc2wmOR5v/IMGP3879-Edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp3879-edit" height="749" src="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/imgp3879-edit-scaled-500.jpg?w=200" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/clay0990-2_-3_-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay0990-2_-3_-edit" height="701" src="http://getfile6.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/5y0gMgnbOfFTITz5AQYJZWfwrbJtYapvIy9aTXaCWJDwt52gmqp7yAkOhKIj/CLAY0990-2_-3_-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/imgp3895-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp3895-edit" height="701" src="http://getfile2.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/hoVztDo0Mo2D1xqAKvA9RfObBROkq6zAcp6cEiUsvEiBwkn051vdIjvXYZjF/IMGP3895-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/imgp3781-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp3781-edit" height="749" src="http://getfile7.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/GaQFA3y5bzovFECuThxfe4BhtchQ0s1Zz2IviW1mfbKrkjcapTfk910IG40F/IMGP3781-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/clay2325-39_pano.jpg"><img alt="Clay2325-39_pano" height="164" src="http://getfile2.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/Ytq2l6tfVbZDZVNmakKCitBGBUEp67IIngvd2J79WmW3YMwSj48eQ5DhJNVd/CLAY2325-39_pano.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/clay2346-51-pano.jpg"><img alt="Clay2346-51-pano" height="274" src="http://getfile7.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/D4JEG4OOuFRWbwoym0jJB3St3kYV2DdFjPvwjNkQeA20xbx7J3v7cTu2LyQa/CLAY2346-51-pano.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/imgp3901-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp3901-edit" height="749" src="http://getfile2.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/Pur1KO7q1uELvGMjcfeea6woJ25xSbE0Yd1FswmpMSHph756JxyW4WwIbDTS/IMGP3901-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/clay2395-2406_pano.jpg"><img alt="Clay2395-2406_pano" height="149" src="http://getfile7.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/JZ4qS8Kv3bs7o6s4sfWv2ZPGRtRj0jzdhS2BNaEJCXrxXM7YJ1DeleirtyjL/CLAY2395-2406_pano.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/imgp3910-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp3910-edit" height="334" src="http://getfile2.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/s3PGNii8lNG3EetWh7icRWAKqK95B5RgAcKSU8nRIcv9ps54b3GXL6FZRitY/IMGP3910-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/imgp3915-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp3915-edit" height="334" src="http://getfile7.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/8tvIYS1oNkVmtvmypXewMsbrhOpIkTtfGg52cX7kimtUTqM4buuNcPlWlcuL/IMGP3915-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a></div></p>clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-70057852437898355212011-08-11T23:46:00.002-06:002013-04-23T23:49:20.485-06:0028 Miles of Washboard Road<div class="WordSection1"><p><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Verdana, sans-serif;">It was 27 years ago that I had last traveled to Racetrack Valley.?? It was a bit rougher in those days: no GPS, no mobile phones, little in the way of signage, only topo maps and your own innate sense of direction (or not).?? We – my wife, our 9-year daughter, and our first golden retriever (Whiskey) – drove in through the northern ‘backdoor’ of Eureka Valley – not yet part of Death Valley National Park (in fact, the park was not yet a park, merely a monument) – via my old rattle-trap of a ’72 International Scout.?? That vehicle had a lot of character and the temperament to match.?? It could drive over anything…or break down trying.?? After a day and night of camping and climbing the Eureka Dunes we continued south past Ubehebe Crater and onto the Racetrack Valley road: 28 miles of mean washboard.</span></p><p><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Verdana, sans-serif;">Back then, at the aptly named Teakettle Junction (mile marker 19), we took a detour on the Hunter Mountain Road, where we spent a night in the Cottonwood Mountains with a glorious view of Death Valley, before backtracking the next day to Racetrack Valley.?? Maybe I was just used to bumping along on stiff suspension back in those days, but I have no memories – negative or otherwise – of the Racetrack Valley Road being anything more than long. (Now, the Lippincott Mine Road is another story entirely, though one I’ll leave unsaid for now.) This time it really was a painful 3 hours of bumping and rattling and shimmying along.</span></p><p><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Verdana, sans-serif;">But first, we made the mistake of asking at Park HQ in Furnace Creek how the road was.?? I proceeded to get the 3<sup>rd</sup> degree from a young ranger: What kind of tires do you have? How many plys are they??? What kind of vehicle are you driving? How many spares do you have? Etc. And then she started laying down the fear-factor: it’s a terrible road; lots of flat tires; big sharp rocks; you’re on your own; no tow service, ad nauseum.?? The road <i>was</i> rocky (small, not big rocks and they didn’t seem particularly sharp either) and washboarded, but beyond that her hyperbole does the Park Service a disservice.?? I understand that they have to deal with lots of boneheads who get themselves into stupid predicaments, but by deliberately inflating the risk of venturing out, they feed into the misguided mantra that the National Park system (read: the federal government) is just trying to “lock up the land.”</span></p><p><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Verdana, sans-serif;">We also made the mistake of filling up at Furnace Creek: >$5/gallon!?? But, really, that and Stovepipe Wells are your only two choices for fresh petrol in the Park.?? (The latter is about a dollar cheaper so if you can, fill up there.)?? As we drove north, the air was still quite hazy from over 24 hours of high winds. Why hazy??? The winds created a sandstorm in the Mesquite Flats area that basically completely blotted out Stovepipe Wells Village and the upper Death Valley basin for the better part of a day.?? When you want clean sand dunes with little to no tracks, post storm is the time to wander in the dunes.</span></p><p><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Verdana, sans-serif;">If you venture this will you leave the pavement at Ubehebe Crater. But, before you do so, check out the crater and surrounding ash lands left over from what appear to be a dramatic series of eruptions some 2,000-7,000 years ago.?? A nice hour-plus long walk around the rim of the ?? mile wide, 777 feet deep crater is just what you need before the grind on Racetrack Valley Road.???? </span></p><p><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Verdana, sans-serif;">Slowly we climbed the long alluvial fan to the high point of Tin Pass (4990’).?? This area is rich with Joshua Trees and if the light is right and you can afford the time, a break here to photograph the weirdly twisted and faintly anthropomorphic plants is a welcome reward.</span></p><p><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Verdana, sans-serif;">A little less than an hour later and we arrive at Teakettle Junction.?? Legend states that over a hundred years ago a miner placed a teakettle at this fork in the bad road. Tradition has lead to hundreds of people doing the same over the last century.?? When I was last here there were but a few.?? Now? Perhaps 50.</span></p><p><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Verdana, sans-serif;">In the distance, some 6 miles away, gleamed Racetrack Valley while just beyond reared the dark southern extremity of the Last Chance Range. This was all familiar to me now: like returning to a well-loved place after many years. Which, it is.</span></p><p><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Verdana, sans-serif;">Next Post: Grandstanding and Moving Rocks</span></p></div><p><div class='p_embed p_image_embed'><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/clay2064-2_-3_-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay2064-2_-3_-edit" height="211" src="http://getfile9.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/HidtIp8FQBas40ZKkcJblMSqXKIUKrD1ArCFDXUEKnvhYWArGVffZxFFeHRz/CLAY2064-2_-3_-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/clay2046-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay2046-edit" height="331" src="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/0XpOtDLP5w7Gs7QzgcJrA2Uz879eGAVe03tqRQVLTfGKzLJNkdvbzhJSzYOU/CLAY2046-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/clay2033-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay2033-edit" height="331" src="http://getfile9.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/6k2J2JvUBqSdZlyYbNeL03sZw5bL0y0kcoq63o2zVbNWNQ3Mrcdu4tU8YThZ/CLAY2033-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/clay2032-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay2032-edit" height="331" src="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/h8nSydZnqHXDGUtri8lqHf1kwm2HWjexdNyrDPlwT7Itwm0BRpsbCKHU9SUI/CLAY2032-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/imgp3931-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp3931-edit" height="749" src="http://getfile9.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/0vZXSIEVivueroidOGIAhIHYJPHceCRxvp7g7Y0fzVUdnxEPITyPa49hqgVG/IMGP3931-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/imgp3933-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp3933-edit" height="334" src="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/mG3gkVuAM5kb4DxvSiSd7TjaMRXTPupcPSwm4zk3ZFEHgnNmaoHBNWRpTJ83/IMGP3933-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/imgp3940-edit.jpg"><img alt="Imgp3940-edit" height="749" src="http://getfile0.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/m9AnyuPeHv8GAOtxLMjeO0Fa9yv47KCdnc7ulWHMeblyDGu9w5irKoGjghUH/IMGP3940-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/BvWjJs8oDnOVJGXXBRUS5LuYpFE98NhGPtgORgACpd7MzuMtaB3v1VvKs3MH/CLAY1010-Edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay1010-edit" height="333" src="http://getfile5.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/MimQy9oNxY8IKKSGtaqPok0B5oBqgwo6IZekrxG41UrbVthepoxQpySbKe8P/CLAY1010-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="<br/>500" /></a></div></p>clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-550681886775812792.post-2561546647408122322011-08-09T16:46:00.009-06:002013-04-23T23:49:18.821-06:00Warning: Limited Vision Ahead<div class="WordSection1"><p><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Verdana, sans-serif;">I was browsing Facebook last week and one of the photography forums I follow posted an image and requested comments.?? This is quite often an occasion for the fanboys to come out and say how ‘awesome’ even the most mundane of subject matter and composition is. (Surely, ‘awesome’ is one of the most frequently used and least meaningful words in the current vernacular of English. Don’t believe me? Still like to use it in everyday usage? Go to Flickr and type the word in the search bar. You will have over 2 million images of various levels of awesomeness to browse. Have fun!)?? However, on this forum I have read insightful and constructive comments that someone actually put some thought into. </span></p><p><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Verdana, sans-serif;">The particular image that caught my attention was of interesting subject matter and was converted to black and white, which generally piques my interest.???? The composition was nice but what I objected to was the existence of an over-large watermark placed in the lower third of the image.?? I’ve already <a href="http://www.clayhausruminations.com/2011/03/watermarks-good-bad-and-downright-ugly.html">written</a> about the disease <i>watermarkis blotis</i>, which seems to be plaguing so many photographers today. In addition, the photographer had processed the image to the point where the sky featured prominent haloing.?? There is using techniques to complement an image and then there is using it to effect.?? Where one ends and the other begins is certainly subjective.?? I have seen completely grunged-out images that work because the processing is well suited to the subject matter.?? And, I’ve seen the opposite, many times over.</span></p><p><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Verdana, sans-serif;">I left a short comment referencing the watermark and haloing and upon checking back 10-15 minutes later was surprised to see a small flame-war between one individual who liked the processing and another who only liked “real” photography. ??The former was of the ‘live-and-let-live’ mindset while the “real photographer” (we’ll call him Mr. RP for short) was condescending, patronizing, absolutist, and quite full of his self.?? His statements became sillier as the thread lengthened.?? For instance, did you know that: HDR is fake; real photographers never have to use Photoshop; unless you are a “real photographer” you are merely a hobbyist; you must have a big camera to be “real photographer” and not merely a ‘cookie-cutter’ camera; if you </span><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Verdana, sans-serif;">shoot raw and in manual mode your image will need ‘nearly no’ post processing; if you're not looking to capture the “real thing” you should just steal an image off the net and manipulate it in Photoshop; </span><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Verdana, sans-serif;">and only full time photographers have anything of value to say about photography. Really? I did not know all of this. But, good news! Now, I do!</span></p><p><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Verdana, sans-serif;">In all seriousness, I thought “this guy has got to be kidding.” I mean, I know a number of full time, and I would say quite real, photographers and they all use Photoshop, Lightroom and various plugins and yes, even the dreaded HDR software.?? But this is all computer gimmickry of course and these folks – who have collectively sold thousands of images and published over 100 books – can clearly not be “real photographers!”?? At least according to Mr. RP. So, I wondered; who the hell is this Mr. RP??? Though he did not list any websites on his public-facing Facebook profile (wouldn’t a real, full time photographer do that?), I was able to sleuth him out. </span></p><p style="margin-bottom:0;"><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Verdana, sans-serif;">Navigating through his website galleries, some of his images were nicely composed and some were pretty journeyman-like, if not just plain boring.?? A few series featured nice colors, if somewhat standard compositions. Generally though many of them lacked pizzazz, interest or excitement and would have been greatly aided by the serious use of post-processing tools. Low-contrast, color-deprived images are not necessarily more “real.” They are just low-contrast and color-deprived.?? My goal is not to trash this unnamed photographer.?? After all, his images must be EXACTLY what he wants out of photography, no matter how limited in vision they seem to me.?? However, it is the visionaries in any creative field (be it art or science!) who push the bounds.?? If not for them, photographs would be strictly representational ?? la 1850’s and painting would not have moved off of the cave walls of <span style="color:#111111;">Lascaux.?? I’ll leave it to Mr. RP to discuss with the ghosts of Messrs. Adams, Weston (all of them!), Brandt, Stieglitz and Steichen (amongst many others) the virtues of the wet chemistry equivalent to Photoshop.?? And, I’ll leave it to others to educate him that shooting in RAW is advantageous primarily because you have the most amount of information to “play with” (not because somehow that format is more ‘real’ in appearance than TIFF or JPEG).</span></span></p><p style="margin-bottom:0;"><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Verdana, sans-serif;color:#111111;"></span></p><p style="margin-bottom:0;"><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Verdana, sans-serif;color:#111111;">No it wasn’t objectionable that Mr. RP’s vision seemed so limited but rather that he insisted others conform to his “wisdom.”?? Worse than parochialism is uninformed absolutism.?? Expressing oneself in such a fashion says much more about the critic than the criticized.</span></p><p style="margin-bottom:0;"><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Verdana, sans-serif;color:#111111;"></span></p><p style="margin-bottom:0;"><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Verdana, sans-serif;color:#111111;">(Warning: below are Photoshop processed images. If offended, please avert your eyes.)</span><span style="font-size:10pt;font-family:Times, serif;"></span></p></div><p><div class='p_embed p_image_embed'><a href="http://getfile0.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/voUBVzligUbn88V6PmVugO2B3FXVzZtPu1l36dPDq4WVEhzvWSq1bdr8fZwS/awake-but-dreaming.jpg.scaled.1000.jpg"><img alt="Awake-but-dreaming" height="701" src="http://getfile8.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/qYoROTE3uO2GvAyBpqrIYAkhhKd1puuUtL54SF6kvEgIPeQjjA31IP1HDt8p/awake-but-dreaming.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/clay6141-edit2-bw-scaled-1000.jpg"><img alt="Clay6141-edit2-bw" height="755" src="http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/KJ9D9xoThChbmUuieAplfOkD3cL9irZ6hL5aKSzRMgfAjLNDkmoEfRUj1SUu/CLAY6141-Edit2-bw.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/clay8085-edit.jpg"><img alt="Clay8085-edit" height="500" src="http://getfile0.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/GWBmvCN4VFyEaK2gKe2dgGsF0XITXk7qZlMhEKq2WDmjHDMVgFdWZyUPImL8/CLAY8085-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://getfile7.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/LJGaPVwpNMSXZERGcjFbFejD9NHxbHkw2pUEBZ8imWMrcSlOLlmnnFXMs7CI/IMGP2664-Edit-2.jpg.scaled.1000.jpg"><img alt="Imgp2664-edit-2" height="334" src="http://getfile5.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/njiSqSJr0hW6c7DrlzC6JhmeKIwEbrjsYdGXD7bTQAzOgzaLqF6F1WutPDUK/IMGP2664-Edit-2.jpg.sca<br/>led.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/clay6910_edit-scaled-1000.jpg"><img alt="Clay6910_edit" height="756" src="http://getfile1.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/lxoYcPGuhdJEFSISOKGgPNVjUvfAccqYdkQ4n0YFSE87n3oWVSOYdwFbHVkW/CLAY6910_Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/clay6948_hdr-edit-edit-scaled-1000.jpg"><img alt="Clay6948_hdr-edit-edit" height="331" src="http://getfile7.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/ECb2c8JnhVAn1GS2NMF6qTm92CqPJPutGwQNAZapTlhDYQvwf6kDUff8OhoV/CLAY6948_HDR-Edit-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/clay4974-82-pano-scaled-1000.jpg"><img alt="Clay4974-82-pano" height="267" src="http://getfile3.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/Yby2NCG4SRcK5Xn6cOQTPJlccdC5AKhY90hSc0gbpvMFSoWzkOd3cEl1a3Nk/CLAY4974-82-pano.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/clay5032-40-vf-scaled-1000.jpg"><img alt="Clay5032-40-vf" height="639" src="http://getfile0.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/E4dlwnFsxcTq58ypK8m9Q9gGxBTpeyOKf6IKoXPeHzWWrQ4I0RH3rQEHW6Et/CLAY5032-40-vF.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/imgp4324-edit-scaled-1000.jpg"><img alt="Imgp4324-edit" height="700" src="http://getfile6.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/MTso1wefgNykLLilLC3Z2g5dFtDT5IytlybD9mKQCvm6xDfmPax8zVVE8gDM/IMGP4324-Edit.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://clayhausphotoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/imgp4021_22_23-vf.jpg"><img alt="Imgp4021_22_23-vf" height="631" src="http://getfile2.posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/clayhaus/NkLc62Ptvac9HND80wwR68VgOjdKC7uI0Vxsz1UrrMbwkW5wbYYL2yGmu8zV/IMGP4021_22_23-vF.jpg.scaled.500.jpg" width="500" /></a></div></p>clayhausruminationshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03745957116651780386noreply@blogger.com0